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Fasemelta

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About Fasemelta

  • Birthday October 20

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  • Location
    Indy
  • Car
    06 5EAT Gt Wagon SWP
  • Interests
    Photography - Luministphoto.com
  • Occupation
    Camera Sales, Print Slinger

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  • User Title
    Gorilla see, Gorilla do

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  1. Hey that's great to know those details. Luckily this is my garage queen, and I have a Kona N-line as a daily, so winter isn't a problem... she just hibernates It always goes like that in the Subaru world. Want to modify one thing and then it snowballs into an entire new project. luckily I have a bit more time and $$ than I did when I first bought the car 8 yrs ago and now its time for me to finish the ride. And so I wait some more for my wheel dreams to come true.......
  2. At the moment the car is stock height, but the rear shocks are on their way out. Open to coilovers and lowering springs as the time has come to replace. Need the 8" wheels to avoid rolling fenders...but if I can't find them, I may jump for the 8.5" and upgrade suspension to squeeze em in there...
  3. Finally got funds saved for the rims and now cant find them anywhere. I can find 18x8.5 but cant roll fenders due to rust starting
  4. Getting this done this weekend. Luckily I got in under the wire on a replacement dash so I'm getting that installed at the same time along with 3 new blend door actuators. Hopefully they don't bork up other things whole they're in there. My whip is gonna feel brand new and as a bonus I finally take my family for a ride in it without the fear of killing them. Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
  5. Cool! Glad you got it figured out. That bearing was making an awful racket. Good luck sourcing a better one. Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
  6. Yeah you won't necessarily take the heat shield off. It will have the O2 sensor wire running through a cut out which prevents it from coming completely off. The metal is super thin and you can just swing it around until it's out of the way. I found it easier to work on with the front tires on ramps and the rear jacked up. You'll need to have the ability to rotate rears to get to all the diff bolts. Make a mark where the diff and propshaft join so you know the proper orientation when putting back on. Have the e brake pulled when breaking the bolts loose. I think those are all the tips I have for ya....good luck! Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
  7. I think our driveshafts are starting to show their age. Check out my thread where mine was making a terrible noise only in reverse. Took it to the shop and they diagnosed bad u joint bearings. Sure enough, they were toast.... Easy to check Drop the heat shield with 4 bolts. The diff to driveshaft connection is another 4, and the center bearing has 2 bolts. It should slide out easy and then you can wiggle around to check for roughness/play https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https%3A%2F%2Flegacygt%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D281028&share_tid=281028&share_fid=5383&share_type=t&link_source=app Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
  8. Decided to drop the prop shaft and found the culprit... Driveshaft u-joints were completely trashed, to the point where most of my body weight was required to move them. I'm glad I caught this "sooner". I read a post on here about a month ago where someone's driveshaft grenaded on them and took out parts of the trans. Found a OE prop shaft on Ebay for $350 which was about half of heuburger was charging. Car wants to cruise much smoother and shifts are much more firm. It may be my wife's civic talking but I think it may have picked up another 5-10hp at the wheels...this thing wants to scoot now. Check out the bearing failure here. Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
  9. If both went out at the same time, check your hatch harness. My reverse lights went out due to a break in the wiring within the harness. The break wasn't easily visible and I had to tug on each wire to find the culprit. Found about 3 others on their way out as well...
  10. This $10 part will end all the headaches switching to led. https://www.diodedynamics.com/cf18-lm449-led-turn-signal-flasher.html
  11. I just replaced both front wheel bearings less than 2000 miles ago. New front brake pads about the same time, so lots of meat left on them. However, I have not had good luck with reman calipers and have had to go through 2-3 sets on the front due to seizing. The noise persists while applying the brakes (including e brake) and seems more consistant with the quicker rotation of the driveshaft. Pinpointing the sound always leads me directly below the front seats about 2ft behind the front axles. I can definitely confirm its not the brakes. Car drives straight and true even when getting on it, so it seems power is applied equally. Thanks Dave, that puts me more at ease that it is less likely to be the trans. How easy is it to drop the driveshaft? I felt no play or slop when inspecting. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  12. Thanks Dude, I found another odd development. So the car is still on stands with the engine idling, and in reverse (or drive) gear only 3 of the 4 wheels will spin easily. When I first engage the gear and let off the brakes all 4 wheels will spin, but the front passenger will slowly come to a stop. Giving it some revs will get it going again but it will inevitably stop at idle. This ended up throwing a code p0500 with error ss on the dash and blinking cruise light. A quick search tells me it's a speed sensor error. My assumption is that one wheel can't keep up with the others, hence the code. The easiest explanation I can think of is dragging brakes on that side(which it is a bit harder to rotate the frt pass wheel by hand than the others) but I would think the car has enough power to rotate them all easily with all wheels suspended in air with no load. Took it for a drive and the code did not clear itself, but the car drove fine with no problems. So I cleared the code and drove, again no problems and the code did not return. I'm stumped at the moment, and hope this sound is not an indication of bigger issues with the transmission or center diff.
  13. I've been trying to track down a noise that occurs only in reverse gear and while the car is loaded on all 4 wheels. Video Here are the steps I have taken: 1. With the car on stands in reverse gear with wheels spinning off the ground - no noise, but once on the ground it makes noise 2. I took off the heat shield and sprayed silicone spray on the drive shaft's rubber gaskets - no changes. One thing I noticed with the car off the ground, is my rear wheels would rotate together if I only spun one wheel, but my front wheels would spin independently in drive and reverse gear, but rotated in opposite directions when in park. Can someone verify this on their car? Any thoughts or suggestions would be awesome
  14. Just a thought, could you also build oil pressure using the flood clear start? Start car with foot to the floor WOT, it will crank and build oil pressure but not start... Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  15. Replaced front wheel bearings and regained cruise control for the 1st time in 5 yrs. Detriot axle hubs came out after only 19k and making horrible grinding on hard turns. Car has no more vibration or noise and steering input is much easier....should have swapped them years back when I lost cruise control due to installing inferior quality hubs. Timken ftw! Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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