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RustyShackleford

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  • Location
    NC
  • Car
    2006 Outback 2.5i 5MT

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  1. I hope I'm not doing it again. I've got serious stuttering at low speed. Hopeful I just haven't gotten all the air out yet. I still had to file it some. I used the Evergreen one (Amazon) that some people here have had luck with.
  2. A few things that might be helpful: 1. One of the three bolts that hold the bracket to the engine block (the green one in photo #2 in post #20) is completely invisible - you can't see it from anywhere, you just have to feel for it, a few inches to the left of the other bolts in that photo. 2. The fit is very snug on the long bolt that connects the pump-proper to the bracket. Sounds like @MaxCapacity took a cutting blade to the bushing in the bracket there; you don't need to do that, it can be pushed a little, using a c-clamp and a socket, to give more clearance. (There's also something in a version of the manual I saw about a bunch of stacked sizes, 14mm, 21mm and such; I didn't see anything like that, but it sounds like it was where this adjustable bushing is). 3. In addition to three bolts that hold the bracket to the block, you need to remove the lock bolt for the alternator belt-tension adjuster. 4. You need to move (from old pump to new one) the little bracket that attaches to the pump and holds the end of the belt cover. You can move it after the new pump is installed, but it's harder. Belt cover didn't quite ft right, had to file out the opening where a rubber bushing goes a little.
  3. Thank you (and @covertrussian) for the non-abusive posts :-) What is "Group N" ? I see the earlier post, but it doesn't really describe them. I decided on the Mevotech aluminum arms. People on the other forum seem to think highly of the bushings (that come pre-installed in them). There's some controversy about the ball joints; some have reported premature failure, the manufacturer blames it on improper installation (beating on them to get to fit into the knuckle), and others say they had a bad batch and it's been remedied. At any rate, recently installed, they shouldn't be too hard to replace if need be.
  4. Blow me. Did you notice I asked if I was thead-jacking and then removed most of my posts when people told me to look at some of @covertrussian other posts for my answers ?
  5. So, another dumb question ... The various after-market bushings listed here (WhiteLine etc) are FAR more expensive than the OEM ones. Convince me they're worth it ...
  6. It's been a couple of months now, since I did StickyDashFix, and I'm pretty happy. Dash is definitely no longer sticky at all, and it's not outgassing and yucking up the inside of my windshield - which was my main issue. I have helped it by using an interior sun shade when I park it at home (which typically it'll sit for days at a time, since we use the EV when possible). It doesn't look great though. Kind of a mottled appearance. Perhaps if applied by a more skillful hand, this wouldn't be the case. Who knows. But it's a 15 year-old car, so I don't expect it to look great. And it's worth $5000 tops, so I couldn't really justify a new dashboard. FOLLOWUP: My dash remains non-sticky, which is great. However, the glare, mostly off the rounded part of the dashboard above the speedo/tach, has a pretty bad glare when driving into the sun. I'm thinking of springing for one of the Dash Designs covers they have at RockAuto. Maybe the velour - can't decide if it'll just look tacky as hell, or maybe a buy-in into the hipster redneck irony thing :-)
  7. Helpful response from guy at other forum ... The connector at the door switch assembly is D7, and the wire connection for the "unlock" function is at pin 4, a brown-with-white-stripe wire ("BrW"). (See attached wiring diagram) To effect a "lock", the switch connects pin 4 to ground (via pin 7, which goes to ground). If there's no visible issue with the wire at the connector, or the pins in the mating connectors, then a quick test might be to ground pin 4 of D7 with a separate wire. If that causes the actuators to work, then the problem is in the switch itself. Another check is for continuity between pin 4 and pin 7 of the connector on the switch when it's in the "lock" position.
  8. I've had the interior panel off my front doors a couple of times recently (new speakers, new door "checks") and now the driver's side master lock button is not working. Because I was plugging/unplugging the wiring connectors to the door panel, and because of the symptoms, I'm pretty sure it's a problem with a wire. The passenger side master lock button works fine, the driver's side master lock button works to unlock but not to lock, the lock solenoid on the driver's side works fine (when I use the passenger side button), and all the window controls on the driver's door work fine. I'm going to pull the panel off again tomorrow, and hope I just didn't plug that connector all the way in good, and that one contact is bad. But my fear is that somehow I messed up the wire to the connector (not much free-ply in that harness, and it probably got stressed earlier). I'd like to know which wire might be broken. Best I can tell from the vacation pix, the connector is D7, with the connections shown on page WI-182 (which labels the connector "POWER WINDOW MAIN SWITCH (DOOR LOCK SWITCH"). I'm hoping it's pin 4 or 5. But I'm really not sure. Anyone else ever dove into this ?
  9. At one point, someone suggested a process to fix my dash where you glue a bunch of fuzzy material to it - "flocking" - apparently it's popular in track cars, because of no glare. One thing I will say for SDF, it's very matte, there is no glare.
  10. Glad we got all that cleared up - couldn't quite see spending close to $1000 on a car that might be worth $5000. And it's not exactly pristine, so the appearance of the SDF doesn't bother me. However, I'd like this to not happen again, and I think I'm just asking for it, as this car sits, parked in the sun, a lot of the time, only driven a couple days per week. So, seems prudent to cover the dashboard when parked at home. What dashboard covers would you recommend ? The kind that goes inside the car - kinda two circular foil things ? Or the kind that goes over the windshield (outside the car) ?
  11. Ok, did the StickyDashFix yesterday - managed to get a rare cool summer day, cloudy but no rain - and so far it looks great. A few notes: 1. You definitely need the extra bottle of coating, if you plan more than two coats, which you probably do (I did four). 2. There will definitely be brush marks wherever you do not use a roller. Definitely buy a miniature roller. And err on the side of getting the roller too close to the windshield; it's easy to clean the stuff off the windshield, and it'll make the job look better (less brush marks). 3. Get painters tape, especially for the pillars; they are a fabric, and any coating you get on them is probably there to stay. 4. Consider getting a pro to do the job for you. I think some skill would've made my result look better. But I don't care that much. It's a 15 year-old car, not exactly pristine. If this prevents the dash from getting sticky again, and prevents outgassing which gunks up the inside of the windshield, I am happy.
  12. My kit included foam brushes (and the aforementioned extra bottle of coating). I bought a mohair mini-roller to use. I popped out my various air vents. Maybe not the best idea though - even though I used those plastic tools they make for this sort of stuff, it still mangled the dash material around the vents some; worse, I guess the plastic got brittle after 15 years, and one of them broke (guess it's time to see how strong my superglue kungfu is). I'm gonna do it tomorrow if it's not sunny - wish me luck.
  13. Yeah, I just got some too. Guy offered to throw in an extra bottle of the sealant, so you might ask for that. Also, came much quicker (to NC) than I'd been led to expect (even by the seller, who said to allow 21 days); it actually came in 16 days. Nice kit - included a big microfiber cloth and two foam brushes, although not the miniature microfiber roller that they say to use for best results with no streaking.
  14. I gooped up the problem areas and laid plastic bags on top, left it overnight, and it helped some.
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