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SoloTSi97

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    SW Ohio
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    06 LGT 5MT (sold)

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  1. The pulley won't turn at all? Is the clutch engaged or disengaged? Belt on or off? With the belt on, you won't be able to turn the pulley by hand, because you're trying to turn the engine crankshaft by hand. And, assuming you're not built like The Rock, you aren't going to be able to do that. With the belt OFF and the clutch DISENGAGED (so there's an air gap between the outer clutch plate and the pulley), the outer clutch plate should spin with some resistance. Here, you're actually turning the shaft inside the compressor, so you'll feel the resistance of that, but you should still be able to turn it by hand. If you can't, the compressor is seized. This can be for a variety of reasons, including low/no freon, not enough compressor oil in the freon, or a seized internal compressor bearing. Adding freon *might* fix the problem, but most likely the compressor is hosed. With the belt OFF and the clutch DISENGAGED, the pulley should spin freely on the compressor shaft. You should feel little or no resistance to spinning the pulley. If the pulley doesn't spin freely, either the clutch is engaged or the bearing inside the pulley is seized (so you're turning the compressor shaft rather than just the pulley). If the pulley won't spin *at all*, then the bearing inside the pulley is seized AND the compressor is seized. Most likely, the pulley bearing has been seized for a while, which means the compressor has been run 100% of the time regardless of clutch engagement/disengagement, and the compressor got worn out as a result. Hope that helps. -Bob
  2. I'm pretty sure that I did the whole job with this set, which I already had on hand. I actually bought my set at Autozone, but it's the same pliers: https://www.harborfreight.com/snap-ring-pliers-with-interchangeable-heads-60531.html The 45-degree attachment was the most useful. -Bob PS: I'd invite others to share their more recent experience since it's been several years since I did this job.
  3. Are you sure it's the clutch itself making noise? A bad noise like that when the clutch is engaged may actually indicate a bearing problem in the compressor itself. Since the compressor only spins when the clutch is engaged, you'd only hear bearing noise when the clutch is engaged (unlike when this happens with an alternator or power steering pump, where the squeal is constant because those are always spinning). Just a thought! -Bob
  4. How many washers are in there? Just one? If so, given the pretty poor tolerance on washer thickness, you might try visiting your local hardware store and picking through the bin for a thinner washer in the same diameter? If you have the means to machine the washer to be thinner, that's certainly an option I guess. Sorry, I didn't have this issue. And, having sold my LGT about five years ago, I don't have the means to be terribly helpful beyond what I remember from documenting this job.
  5. The "wavy" washer is not the snap ring. The snap ring is shaped like a C (not a full circle) that fits into a groove on the compressor shaft. When taking mine apart, once the snap ring was removed, there was no resistance at all holding the pulley on. Good luck! Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk
  6. If the AC works, there is no reason to do this particular fix. I'd suspect that there's another reason for the CEL, which is causing the engine to not run at 100%, and the added strain of the compressor kicking on is just making the problem worse or more noticeable. The CEL could be all kinds of things, so best to do what you plan and have the codes read. Good luck!
  7. Over time, any compressor gets harder to turn... whether it's the bearings or need of a recharge with lubricant or what, I'm not sure. Could it just be that when the compressor kicks on, it's causing enough strain on the idling engine that it vibrates? I never noticed that with my Legacy, but have noticed it in other high-mileage 4-cylinders that I've owned. Do your RPMs drop while the compressor is running, even slightly? This alone wouldn't worry me, unless it was a pretty bad vibration.
  8. Agreed. Based on the severity of the vibration you describe, it's unlikely to be related to the A/C compressor. If it was, you'd be able to see the compressor vibrating (more like jumping around) with the hood up if it feels like a jackhammer in the car!
  9. Clutch is possible, though that sounds more like the bearings in the compressor itself have had it. I suppose if you can find a cheap/free compressor to steal the clutch from and try it yourself, it may pay off. More likely, you're going to need to replace the compressor, though, which probably means having a pro do the work. Just my $.02. -Bob
  10. You probably bought the same set I did at Autozone. Oh well, one can never have too many tools. :-) Good deal!
  11. Hope it helps ... good luck! I sold my LGT a couple of weeks ago, and the fixed compressor with a Perrin crank pulley never hiccuped once. :-) -Bob
  12. I have the same complaint using a dock connector with both an iPhone 3GS and an iPhone 4S. I think it was made worse when I added the ground loop isolator. It's not terrible, but I have to turn the radio up to at least 30 with audiobooks and even higher for Pandora. I may look into those pre-amp ideas, though. -Bob
  13. The P/S pump does not have a clutch ... it is working all the time. (Neither does the alternator ... only the A/C compressor does, since it switches on and off rather than actually running all the time). The P/S pump is driven by a separate belt from the A/C compressor, so any issue with the A/C clutch should have no effect on the power steering. If the mechanic said that there is rust/corrosion behind the clutch assembly, I don't think he was talking about power steering? It is true that tightening a belt too much will cause wear on the bearings in whatever the belt is driving, but there are two belts in there ... one drives power steering & alternator, and the other drives the A/C compressor. -Bob
  14. The two times I had a pressure problem, they were caused by damage to the condenser and the symptom was a *gradual* loss of cooling ability, not a sudden loss of A/C function. That said, both experiences were in other vehicles. You can tell if the magnetic clutch is engaging just by looking at it. When not engaged (A/C system turned completely off), the center section of the pulley does not turn. If you turn the A/C on (manual mode so you know it should be running), the center section of the pulley should start to turn as the clutch engages. If you see this happen, it's not likely the clutch itself. Of course, it could certainly still be the compressor. I don't have experience with troubleshooting A/C systems, so hopefully others have more advice for you! -Bob
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