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BigBopper

I Donated Too
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  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • Car
    '10 LGT , '14 Foz , '16 OB

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  1. This is the low pressure intake side to turbo. In OEM configuration, 1st nipple on left side comes from L&R valve cover breather hose ports. Next nipple to the right comes from crankcase vent below PCV. These two nipples/lines introduce the oil mist/blow by you are trying to eliminate from the intake, by installing the AOS.
  2. 2010 LGT does not have the electronic check valve ("white sensor"). Don't know about 2011 & 2012 LGT.
  3. Hey, don't forget me too! I removed both also. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5100783&postcount=337
  4. Looks like it got bent during supplier handling or shipping, causing the coating to flake off. It also looks like it has a defect (blemish/depression). Did you sign for it at delivery? Is the box beat up like it was dropped or crunched? You may need to file a claim with the shipper. Contact supplier/manufacture and see what they can do for you. If they're willing to work with you for a replacement, see if you can have them double box the new one. Good Luck
  5. Hope these help you with the PCV valve replacement project. BTW, I found some cracks in my hose that you can see in the photo by my thumb and forefinger.
  6. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5297783&postcount=5
  7. Can you verify the boost pressure is actually what the engine (ECM) is seeing. If the boost pressure was actually lower than what is being used by the ECM, it seems you would experience lower performance, as you are now... ? Throwing out ideas.
  8. The backside weld on the old pin post was machined off and the OEM post was removed/discarded. The new pin/post was machined from a piece of solid stainless round stock, no welding. Re: locknut ... final mock up will determine if I have enough clearance as/is from the trans housing, which will determine what I end up doing. I really expect to only set adjustment once, to the measurement I'm after. I could see the adjustability playing more of a role if a different shifter (Boomba, etc...) was used.
  9. Well, I have been working on coming up with a solution that would give me the shifter throw length and gear engagement feel I will be happy with. I haven't given the Perrin SSA enough of a chance to see if I could be happy with it long term. My (limited) initial impression was very short shift throws and a notchy feel. I will give it some road time before making a final decision to keep or change. My impression of the Sti STS, w/Perrin bushing and gear engagement feel of the transmission has been good in all gears except 2nd. My biggest complaint was the longish shift throws. After looking at the Subaru OEM shift lever (tomahawk), I realized some engineer had spent a fair amount of time to design and configure the weight and shapes of the balancing lobes, to achieve that transmission shifting feel. Soooo .... I decided to modify mine to try to achieve the best of each, and also be able to adjust the length of the shifter throw length to get the feel I'm after. This is the result of the brainstorm. (I hope to get this put on and tested the beginning of June ... more later)
  10. Please don't think I'm pointing this response directly at you ibr_adam, this is for general consumption. Weak shouldn't have anything to do with it. You just need to line up the 3/16 pin punch straight in line with the pin, then get a solid hit on the punch with a medium sized ball-peen hammer. After you get some initial movement on the pin, it just taps out easily. I wouldn't use any heat on it (there's a seal on the trans shaft that can be damaged). PB Blaster is Ok to lube the roll pin, but it shouldn't be necessary. If you don't have a 3/16 pin punch, you should buy/borrow one.
  11. Correct on the WC Lathe Werks SS knob. Not sure about height difference. I never had the stock knob. I had a Sti Leather Knob before this.
  12. Just finished up installing the Perrin Short Shift Adapter on my '10 LGT. I took some pictures of the shifter position in 3rd and 4th gear before/after to give everybody some idea of the shifter throw difference. My car has the Sti STS, so keep that in mind while browsing the pics. After checking out the lay-out of what needed to be done, I elected to support the trans and drop the crossmember assembly (8 bolts and out of the way). It gave me a clear, straight on, path to drive the roll pin out and made reassembling easy-peasy. No busted knuckles and maniacal cursing. I already had the car up in the air (4 jack stands) for another project, so working on my back under the car wasn't a problem at all. Pic #1 - 3rd gear measurement (before) Pic #2 - 4th gear measurement (before) Pic #3 - Trans crossmember & OEM (tomahawk) shift lever. Pic #4 - Trans gear shift shaft Pic #5 - Done Pic #6 - 3rd gear measurement (after) Pic #7 - 4th gear measurement (after) Didn't get a chance to test it out on the road (I've got 4 cu yd of topsoil & mushroom manure blocking my driveway at the moment). I did row through the gears, although the engine was not running, so the feel was not typical of running down the road. Short throws with a nice "snick" into gears. More later ...
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