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sjwelna

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  • Location
    Rochester, MN
  • Car
    2008 Legacy GT 5MT

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  1. As a follow up (long term) to my other posts, just did a fresh flush yesterday with some ATE superblue and it helped firm up the pedal some more. The Valvoline fluid I had in it was fine but there was a little slack at the beginning of the pedal travel, possibly some air left in the lines or just not as good fluid, who knows. Still feels awesome and I love the difference. -Steve
  2. Posted this in another thread, but I knocked out the Koni/Epics on my car last night after work. Only took me about 4-5 hours including taking a break between front/back for dinner. All my bolts surrendered to my Makita cordless impact easily so I think I got lucky, everything went back together with anti-seize for the future. So far the quick impression is great, good bye lift/dive!
  3. Or a socket it can't break? For 1/2" drive 780 is pretty good, but yeah if you need some real ogre power 1" drive is where it's at. -Steve
  4. I'm pretty sure my car must have been an early-year production of the MY08. I checked my hardlines before I bought/installed the MBC/booster and they were the correct size, 10mm. My car also didn't have the stretchbelt that is supposedly part of this model year as well, I had the tensioner so I didn't need all the Gates parts from Grimmspeed. -Steve
  5. If PB Blaster + MAPP gas + breaker bar/impact gun can't get it, you're in trouble. My Makita cordless impact is still only mostly effective on the big suspension bolts. The real stubborn ones take heat + impact. One of my next purchases will be: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-2135TiMAX-2-Inch-Impact-Wrench/dp/B000WMN2GU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS?ie=UTF8&coliid=IONJFLUXTAGII&colid=M7MT1E81HIML]Amazon.com: Ingersoll-Rand 2135TiMAX 1/2-Inch Air Impact Wrench: Home Improvement[/ame] -Steve
  6. I had to use a round file to knock down the lip on the inside of the stock strut housing that the pipe cutter made. Took a couple minutes. I got them all assembled last night and I have Epics being delivered today along with a lot of other bushings from Infamous Performance. Can't wait to get these on the car, first I have to get my truck put back together and out of the garage though. -Steve
  7. Update after a couple weeks driving with the STI booster/MBC. I LOVE this thing. -Steve
  8. Did you have a barb/neckdown where the pipecutter pushed the metal inwards necking down the opening on the strut? I know it did that to me when I cut mine, I still need to go back and grind it flat before I put in my front inserts. -Steve
  9. Heat the nut up with a MAPP gas torch. Don't waste your time with propane. Spend the 45-50 bucks on the one with the push-button start from Lowes and you'll thank me later. I love my little torch, I use it for tons of stuff.
  10. Good to see the KDT905 kit fits out cars for the cradle. I might consider doing these with some other bushings going on the car. I'll probably go buy the Harbor Freight 20 ton press to do it though.
  11. Why remove it? Just cut the checkvalve out of the STI line and push it a couple inches into the LGT line. That's what I did and everyone else. Works great. -Steve
  12. I KNEW that was the charlotte skyline! I'm pretty sure I have a picture of my old DSM on top of that same parking deck. Did you get your slip out at Rockingham? -Steve
  13. I posted this in the other thread, but the brake pedal free play is very minimal, 2-3mm so it isn't that. (tested by pumping up the pedal until totally firm, then pushing on the brake pedal with 2 fingers lightly to check how far it will still travel, it will move about 2-3mm until it hits the first stop point, then you have to push really firm to get it to move a little bit more, still the total travel is minimal) Also, after driving around with the new booster in, it really does firm up the pedal. There isn't a lot of nothing at the top of the pedal now that I've given it some time, I had to do the first test drive in the rain so that could have been contributing (wet rotors?) Overall I'm very happy. -Steve
  14. The pedal freeplay is minimal, maybe 2-3mm at most, it's not that. -Steve
  15. As a follow up the 'nothing happening' at the top of the pedal travel I am almost sure is 100% the booster. When I had everything apart I could push the rod that bolts to the brake pedal in a little ways before it started to move the rod that pushes on the master cylinder. I wish I knew how to make that takeup less, that would make the brakes even better. The upside of having that bit of travel before the brakes bite is that the brake and gas pedals aren't at really different levels, which means you can still heel-toe without having to really crank your foot into a weird position. -Steve
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