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mbazzano88

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About mbazzano88

  • Birthday 12/03/1988

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  • Location
    CT
  • Car
    2005 Legacy GT 5MT

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  1. Thanks everybody for the replies! The noise gets worse when the car moves. Pushing the clutch pedal in doesn't get it to stop. This began slowly, and would only happen under a certain amount of boost while driving. It was repeatable but almost not noticeable unless you listened for it. Brought it to the shop, they had it up on a lift and could recreate it by holding the brakes and putting the engine under load that way. It is now worse than ever, the shop thinks it is the center diff but the last couple times I've brought the car in they have thrown a part at it and sent me away, so I'm not putting much stock in their diagnosis.
  2. Thanks for the input finallegacy, the shop did have it up in the air and checked to see if it was the heat shields. They are telling me it was not.
  3. Took it in to the shop, they're saying the noise is coming from the center diff but they would need to tear in to it to diagnose any further. But they haven't ever heard this noise before. What do you guys think? https://drive.google.com/open?id=13o3-tCmBpfVqqzHZR0phzNgRgsnC4U-9
  4. Asking Price: $2000 Location: East Hartford, CT Means of Contact: PM me for more info/pictures Year, Make and Model: 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Transmission: 5MT Miles: 168K Title: Clear For sale is my 05 Subaru Legacy GT. 5 speed manual, 168k miles, oil changed every 3k. Vehicle has aftermarket parts and has a tune from ECS Performance for the parts on it. Aftermarket parts (all professionally installed): - Invidia Catless Up Pipe - CNT Hi Flo Catted Down Pipe - FMS Catback Exhaust - Invidia UEL Headers - Process West TMIC - South Bend clutch with WRX single mass flywheel - Kartboy short throw shifter with weighted shift knob The good: - Comes with spare wheel set and Blizzak winter tires (2 seasons) - 1 1/4" tow hitch installed - No major body damage (some cosmetic dings) - No rust - New front axles and ball joints - New spark plugs - New O2 sensor - No turbo shaft play (checked by shop recently) The bad: - Drips oil onto exhaust pipe, will smoke and smell (will need a quart added every 1k or so, its an older Subie) - Grinding noise while driving, had the shop look at it. Diagnosed as wearing front differential. -Smoke from exhaust pipes while driving - Missing some interior trim (lid to center console, rear cupholders) I will be including the stock UP and mufflers with this sale. Will not be including bike rack or roof rack in sale, but those are for sale separately and will give you a deal if you want the whole package. Car runs and drives. Open to reasonable offers.
  5. No, I have a catless up. Found two wires hanging out in the passenger footwell, they have green blocky ends and they aren't connected to each other?
  6. The rattling noise comes on around 2k rpms and does increase. I'll check for anything loose. Have never pulled the downpipe before, is it relatively straight forward? I felt like they were familiar with me but the last two times its been completely different.
  7. TL;DR: 05LGT 165k - running poorly, lack of power but reading full boost. Shop replaced O2 sensor, injectors, now doesn't reach full boost, new scary rattling noise. OK. Sorry for the potentially lengthy post but I'm at a loss for what to do about this. <rant> Let me start by saying this shop has done all of my work on the car for the past 6 years and for the last 5 have been awesome and friendly. Began a few months ago, car would stutter and hesitate under acceleration, and really feel underpowered when it smoothed out. I have the Torque Pro app so I can monitor some things including boost (17.5psi, which is correct for the max boost per my stage 2 tune at this shop), and I was reaching that number even though it didn't feel right. So I bring the car to the shop and describe the problem. Shop tests it and says I'm running lean, blames O2 sensor. I OK the work and it is replaced. I pick the car up, and it is great again, everything is reaching the correct numbers, the car feels responsive and pulls hard just like it used to. I'm happy. UNTIL that same day, it begins hesitating again and again feels underpowered. I check the boost numbers, it is still hitting the target of 17.5psi, but stuttering and feeling slow again. I call shop back and say hey, that problem came back. Shop says O2 sensor could have been masking another problem, explains that injectors would be the next thing to replace to fix this issue (to their credit they mentioned injectors when I picked the car up from the O2 sensor replacement). I'm hesitant to do it since I'm trying to sell the car and don't want to put more money into it than I could sell it for, but I OK the work again after getting reassured that this is the most likely cause of the problem and the shop owner would try this if it were his own car. Work is done, I pick it up and drive it home. No longer stuttering, but still feels not quite right. I load up Torque and see that I'm now only hitting 13psi instead of the 17.5psi, and there is a light metallic rattling noise when boost starts to build. I am not happy. I call the shop and explain that there is a new problem, ask about what they had to do to the car. Shop says they replaced the injectors. I asked if they had to change anything with the tune. Shop says no. I tell them I'm reading 4psi low and there's a new mechanical noise under acceleration, maybe something went wrong with installation? Shop gets immediately defensive, tells me my car is trying to fall apart at every corner. I ask why nobody told me there was a new noise and the car wasn't hitting full boost. Shop says they do a pressure test but don't take the cars out for a drive after service and floor it, and running lean could cause the turbo to reach higher boost pressures since it is running hotter, so new injectors running correctly makes less boost. (You don't need to floor it to get the noise to happen. You can't drive without the noise happening). Shop offers to inspect the car for free (after much questioning on my end) but says it sounds like my turbo is dying and I am going to end up putting a lot of money into a dying car. A couple of things bother me about this. One is that they didn't test the car before calling me and telling me it is done. Another is that on both occasions the owner called me and asked for payment over the phone while telling me the work was complete. (what business makes you pay for something before you pick it up?) A third is that this latest issue seems very different than what I brought it in for and just HAPPENED to pop up after bringing it back from getting work done. Could somebody help me sift through all of this information? I don't know enough about these cars to make sense of any of it. Will a lean running turbo make higher boost? Wouldn't a dying turbo not hold that boost even if it was running lean? What could have gone wrong with an injector install? I get the feeling that this job was rushed but have nothing to back that up with. </rant>
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