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dingbang

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  • Location
    Rochester, MN
  • Car
    JGC SRT8 & Yukon Denali

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  1. Haven't had my LGT for years but in the process of moving and found some bins of parts for the car. This is a digital PLX DM-6 multigauge, AFR and boost modules, AFR sensor, all the wiring you'd need. Includes a bonus cubby in excellent condition and include the rubber mat. Foam at the top is wearing off but that's easily cleaned/replaced with some weather stripping. Include the cubby pod as well, small crack in the side. Could be super glued very easily. From what I recall, I bought this off a guy that never ended up using the setup. Sold as-is, I never got around to installing it bc I had a 3 gauge a pillar setup I liked too much at the end of the day. Forgot how fun uploading pictures here is. Here's a Dropbox link with the items for sale. Edit, see reply to post with pictures. Included one for nostalgia from when I had dipped the LGT (LGT not included ) $135 OBO shipped/paypay'd good and services only. Conus.
  2. No, I had a wobble socket extension. Yeah, it's not really possible to do without a wobble now that I think about it. :/
  3. If I had a helper, I would have impacted from the inside with them holding a breaker on the outside. Solo I tried it in and out, finally broke the outside loose.
  4. Do you have a long extension? I did mine on jack stands on a lower setting. The socket extension allowed me to sit on the ground, put my foot on the extension as a brace, and then pull back on it with my upper body. Still took a little bit but eventually they broke loose.
  5. ^^TOB on its way out... and from the sound of it...if you get the squealing and chattering...there's not much time left on it. Better to address it now b/c if that thing explodes...bad stuff can happen.
  6. Yeah, mine rubs against the timing cover bolt too. I even have the low profile bolt in. The only way I can see it not rubbing is relocating the top of the washer fluid res and shifting the core more towards the driver's side, but it's so tight right there to begin with. I just put some quiksteel crap where it rubs every now and then.
  7. Hairspray/spray gel works wonders for the blue T and also getting your FMIC couplers on/set. I have some in the garage just for the car. lol
  8. Check out the mnsubaru boards, I'm sure you'll find some Mankato folks on there.
  9. ME! I'm in Rochester, where are you at? If you haven't visited the mn subaru forums, suggest you check it out to meet a bunch of mn based subi folks. mnsubaru.com
  10. Another VF38, TD04HLA-19T, I believe the VF44/45 will also fit the flange configuration. The VF36/37 and VF42 will not fit the flanging for the VF38 style turbo. I was looking at a TD04HLA-19T, but they are hard to come by used, and wasn't going to spend the money for one brand new. I had nekdut/kirbwrx's VF38/PE1818(18g) setup and the oil seals went. I was pushing 23psi through it til it started to give up on life. Will probably end up throwing the piping up for sale, was debating on trying to rebuild it but after it was pulled and I saw the shaft play...went back to single scroll with a vf39/ewg (got a hell of a deal localling on the turbo/ewg setup).
  11. Yeah, there is no pre-turbo O2 sensor bung on the Jdm t/s oem header/up-pipe...I found it quite odd
  12. I was able to torque mine down with the wheels on the ground without a problem. Getting those rears off was a pita, my electric impact didn't budge em Took brute strength, pb blaster, and lots of yelling and swearing to break the bolts loose.
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