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BoostWagon

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  • Location
    Concord MA
  • Car
    05 5MT LGT Ltd Wagon
  • Occupation
    Energy efficiency guy

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  1. "Remove the wheels and break loose each of the bleeder screws and then check them to make sure that they are open and not rusted shut. If they are, use a piece of wire or drill bit to open the center and side holes and then reinsert back into your calipers or wheel cylinders." Stupid question here, I assume you are cracking each bleeder screw to ensure they will in fact open, then closing them and doing one corner at a time with the drain process? Thanks.
  2. As noted in response to the above by another poster, you screw your filter onto this. And when it fails (leaks), its a $200 part. Tried replacing oil lines and hoses, O-ring to no avail. Pisses me off when a simple heat exchanger fails. Was going to tackle the replacement myself, but then my clutch failed so I had them do the cooler at the same time.
  3. So its been a month, probably about 2,500 miles with no recurrence of the P0302 code sine I swapped injectors in cylinders 2 & 4. Once these codes clear, do they stay reset until a certain amount of time passes?
  4. Thanks for the write-up on how to do this. Have a P0302 code, before I change plugs I figured I'd swap the injectors on cylinders 2 & 4, see if the code moved. Ran into trouble getting a grip on the injectors to pull them out with pliers, noticed the holes on each side. Figured those were probably used for a specialty tool made for pulling the injectors, so I made a puller out of a heavier duty coat hanger and one sturdy zip-tie, worked like a charm. Having trouble attaching pics today, so here's a description of how. Use one of the hangers that has the cardboard tube, discard the tube. Cut off both bend ends so you have two equal length straight pieces connected by the curved hanger end. Using a pair of pliers, bend a 1/4 tip 90 degrees to the end of each side. Then bend an offset (two bends required each side) into each end so that the tips can fit into the injector, while the two hanger wires can snug together just above the injector. Cinch the zip tie around the two wires, trim the excess. Slide the zip tie up towards the hand grip (hanger) end while inserting the bent tips into each side of the injector. Slide the zip tie down to tighten the tips in place in the injector. Hold the puller with one hand near the injector, pull on the other end, should work fine. You can also bend one of the handles on a binder clip as shown, but the hanger is the easier solution.
  5. Very interested in your pics for this, I fixed my hatch lock and license lights by splicing 3 wires - at least 3 more look to be headed for failure. Saw one harness connection above the right rear taillight on the pillar, but it didn't look like it went into the hatch, and it only appeared to have two wires. There was another bundle of cables in some kind of sheath, but no harness connections accessible via the upper trim panel on the column. If I take off the lower panel, will I find more connectors for this harness? Update: Wiring harness is $243(!) at local dealer, roughly $183 at Fred Beans. Both too pricey, sounds like time for a You-Do-It Electronics trip.
  6. Another DD here, based in New England. Havng my Konis and Epics installed this Thursday, I opted for the adjustability of the Konis with our widely variable roads. Probably wont tweak them often, just figure ut what setting I like best and leave it there most of the time. Never researched the KYB cost but the Konis can be had for less than $500 right now for all 4.
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