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Burock

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About Burock

  • Birthday April 13

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  • Location
    New England
  • Car
    '06 Legacy GT Wagon/ '10 Forester XT
  • Occupation
    Physician

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  1. Got mine today ! Fast shipping from ND to RI in 2 days. Forgot how small the actual T was. Looks like nice quality. THanks...
  2. Just got done with the Spark plug job: I bought the tool seen in earlier messages in this thread from Harbor Freight: 1/4" And 3/8" Drive X 14-3/8" Double Head Flex Ratchet Wrench Item #67994 This tool made the job painless. The only other tools I needed for this job were the 5/8" spark plug socket, a 12mm socket, and a 3" extension. The driver's side rear coil took a bit of adjusting like a puzzle but no real problem. Took about 40 minutes per side. No scrapes, not a hard job. Far better job than replacing my oil pickup in the oil pan...that was a bitch to get that oil pan back in there- never seen bolts as hidden as those rear oil pain bolts.
  3. After about a year, I finally put my STI MC/BB back on my Legacy GT. I had initial problems a year ago with all four brakes locking up before we all knew that this was an issue of pushrod length. I'm glad to be back w/ the STI setup for pedal feel. It markedly firms the pedal and increases pedal sensitivity. I don't note any improvement in actual braking distance though. A few summary points with my re-install: The Grimmspeed MC brace fits with the STI MC but its close. In addition, I had to redrill a new hole for the piece of the brace that has the threaded rod pushing against the MC. I had to drill the hole about 1/4" below the existing hole to contact the MC near the center of its diameter. To adjust the pushrod, I would start with approximately 6 threads showing distal to the lock nut. Stock Legacy GT MC had 5 threads showing but this locks up my brakes if I leave it the same. If you want the pedal firmer, then turn the pushrod so that less threads are showing (longer pushrod length). If the pedal is too firm and the brakes lock up, turn the push rod so more threads are showing, ie 7-8 (shorter rod). The brakes locking up sucks and it can take a few hours to depressurize. Unhooking the brake booster vacuum line though may relieve enough pressure to get it unlocked though. Err on the side of a looser pedal to begin with (ie maybe 7-8 threads showing). Make sure that the brake light sensor activates with the slightest tap of the brake pedal. If it doesn't, this sensor can be adjusted quite easily with the two lock nuts.
  4. Just bought some at the dealer today for $2 each. They are 10mm-1.25 x 20 mm long. All Subaru's use the same rear bolts. They are least 10.9 hardness and I found that the 8.8's from the local hardware store get destroyed. Torque is 38 ft-lbs.
  5. I can't wait to go back to the STI MC/ BB setup. However, I plan to buy a new STI MC and adjust the freeplay on the push rod next time.
  6. Check valve was properly placed per your description and was not clogged. THe only other thing I can think of was that I did not adjust the pushrod length when I received the MC/BB off Ebay. This could have been too short and could have needed adjustment to increase freeplay. However, before I put in the Check valve, I had no issues with the STI MC/BB gradually locking up and all was fine. Problems seemed to emerge after the check valve was placed in.
  7. Thanks for the responses so far. I actually swapped my Stock Legacy Gt MC/ BB back in last night until I can determine the problem. I bled the MC and all the lines and ABS worked fine after the STI swap. In fact, everything worked well for approximately one week then the pedal starting becoming progressively stiff, especially when warm, until finally they locked up. In regards to the Check valve, there was an arrow on the STI hose which indicated direction of flow of the check valve (bullet end towards --> Engine), which is what I did (towards manifold), and flat piece towards the booster. When I took out the valve last night, it was not clogged and was functioning properly. I did note that there was paint break down on the MC where it meets the BB, which may indicate a leak in the seals. I did not ruin any hard lines, b/c brakes function fine now w/ stock MC/BB. The reason I brought up the AT vs MT MC is that is on the Subaru parts website, there are different part numbers for the WRX AT MC, WRX MT MC, and WRX STI MC. I suspect I got a bum MC from Ebay and will be asking for a swap. I may just buy a new STI MC for $162. I am not too happy to be back the shi*ty brake feel of the stock MC/BB but at least its not locking up now.
  8. I have had some MAJOR problems following my STI MC/ BB swap. After running the car for a while, the brakes are locking up in all four corners to the point that I am running at 3000 rpm just to go 10mph and all four corners were smoking hot. After the brakes cool down, all is good again until the next time I travel, happens after about 5 miles or so. Unfortunately it happened on I-95 in downtown Providence last week and the car became essentially uncontrollable. I've bled all four corners and the MC but I suspect it is a problem with the MC. Perhaps it is because I am using an STI manual transmission MC with an AT Legacy. I'm hoping I can remedy my problem with a brand new WRX automatic transmission MC. Anyone have any ideas why all four brakes are locking up now when hot?? Would an ineffectively bled MC cause this?
  9. Final impressions on the STI BB/MC Swap: Pedal is much firmer, modulation remains linear but requires a tad bit more foot pressure than previously, stopping distance is most likely the same. For those of you plagued by the "parachute effect" and marked pedal input necessary with the stock setup, it will solve this issue for under 5% of the cost of a BBK kit. In fact, it makes expenditure on a full BBK kit unnecessary except for those tracking their car weekly. Granted, the bling factor of this swap is non-existant vs the BBK kit. It also makes the prospect of the upcoming GrimmSpeed MC brace less necessary, and in all likelihood, useless.
  10. The height is essentially the same with the STI reservoir. It is so far over to the right that it makes no difference with an aftermarket TMIC. I have an AVO TMIC and there is no problem with clearance issues.
  11. I got the STI brake booster hose yesterday and cut out the check valve. It is approximately 3/4" long and tightly fits into the hose. There is a rounded top like a bullet that points towards the intake manifold and a flat base which points towards the brake booster. I could not get the check valve to slide into my old hose so I put it back in part of the STI hose and got a 3/8" x 3/8" barb connector (nylon) and tied the two sections together. I used Silicone spray and heated up the old hose, but still couldn't get in there. I would rec. just cutting the old and new hoses and splicing them together to avoid a lot of headaches trying to get that damn valve in there without destroying it (it is thin plastic.) On an aside, I bled the two brake lines that come out of the MC. However, I didn't bleed the bleeders on the 4 calipers, anyone think this would be necessary too?? Seems fine without bleeding them but perhaps someone else knows something I don't know. I also cycled the ABS a few times, pedal remains firm throughout.
  12. I found out today what happens without a check valve in place after the STI swap. If you go from a boost situation, even minimal boost, to pushing the brake pedal, there is a delay of probably a 1/2 second where there is no brake action at all, not good. If you drive w/o boost, it works normally. Fortunately my STI hose will be coming in tomorrow. You can't safely complete this swap without the STI brake booster vacuum hose.
  13. Just finished putting in a 2005 STI Brake booster and master cylinder in my 2006 Legacy GT. First impressions- much less wait time on pedal feel converting to braking, meaning braking action comes on instantly instead of the brief delay. Of note, the STI brake booster is made by Bosch vs the Legacy booster which is made by Tokicko in the US. From what I've read on the Forester forums, the key to making braking better is the booster and the not the master cylinder. I'm sure it doesn't hurt that I'm now running a 1 1/16" MC vs the 15/16" MC I had before. To perform the switch, you need to remove the engine cover, intercooler, and a line that runs along the top of the firewall. You also need to remove a plastic piece that covers the brake pedal and gas pedal. It's a pretty simple transition. You will also need to bleed the brake lines that go into the master cylinder. With a Motive bleeder, it's really quick and painless. Integroid- I am still waiting on the STI brake booster hose so I can harvest the check valve. Any dangers in driving without the check valve in place?? What part of the stock Legacy brake booster hose did you insert the check valve?? TIA- Jeff.
  14. 26140FE131 The part number for the Brake booster Vacuum hose w/ the Check valve in it, for those doing this swap.
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