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Jubs

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  • Birthday March 16

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    05 Legacy GT 5MT Swaggon

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  1. Sorry I probably should have specified that this is a wagon. The emergency release switch isn't like that of sedans, this is specifically meant for dead batteries and broken cables. You have to remove a small trim piece and reach in to access it. It's the white plastic arm on the left of the picture I attached and you can see it pretty clearly in the video below. I tried a combination of flat heads and pick tools, but nothing wants to budge and I have no real room for leverage. This whole situation isn't helping my phobia of plastic parts in cars.
  2. So the other day I went to grab jumpers to start the M3 out of the legacy and my rear hatch refused to open. I was a little surprised since I've never had any issues of it sticking or acting weird, but I guess she's 15 years old and becoming a angsty teen. I did a quick search and the emergency plastic lever seemed like a pretty easy fix. So I dug myself in and with very little force... it snapped. So now I'm in search of a plan b that hopefully doesn't involve the angle grinder. Here's some more specific details: The outside plastic latch sticks open or closed. It feels like it is still somewhat connected, but obviously it's not actually opening anything. The electrical actuator has power and reacts with when unlocking. There is a small little wheel that I can see rotate whenever I lock or unlock it, so I doubt this is the root of the issue The small tension spring was still attached to the lock assembly, but has since flown off in my troubleshooting. My best guess is that there's a physical interference somewhere preventing this assembly from budging, but it's a PINA to access or even just look at anything. Here's some questions I was hoping to get some feedback on: Is there a way to disassemble this without opening the hatch? It seems like there's two inaccessible bolts on the bottom holding it in place that I could maybe try backing out with a pair of vise grips, but there's also a few small phillips on the plastic body I could try? Could I try wrenching on the rotating the little plastic wheel? It seems to be connected to the part that's supposed to have the emergency lever, but I'd rather not break more things if the assembly could be saved. Am I realistically best off to break out the angle grinder and just cut the whole assembly up? Am I realistically best off to break out the angle grinder and just cut the whole car up into a ute? Here's a picture of the latch assembly I'm talking about. This shows the important side I can't access. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
  3. It really depends on what supporting mods you're running in addition to the turbo, but generally the best intercooler will be whatever you can find a good deal on. If you're only replacing the turbo then I would probably recommend just staying stock (or reinforced stock). Grimmspeed makes the best TMIC and is worth every penny IMO, but PW TMIC's work just as well. I have mixed feelings on the Perrin/AVO/Mishimoto intercoolers, but they're worth it if you can find one under $300. I wouldn't run a FMIC with a VF52 unless it was free.
  4. Eh.... yes and no. Air really doesn't like to be pushed, especially turbulent air around a sharp 80 degree bend and through a porous media. The TMIC's on these cars benefit way more from the venturi effect than bernoulli's principle. Look at the underbody of any fancy german or itallian car, there's a reason why there's so much plastic. The seal that the engine cover provides probably improves the flow by providing a slightly higher positive pressure zone above the intercooler, but that's only going to be marginal at best. Keep in mind, the hood scope on these cars are incredibly small and is optimized more for a better drag coefficient. This was one of the first cars in which subaru really focused on the drag coefficient and have since dramatically increased the size of their hood scopes since then. If you really want to increase the airflow then you should consider adding a front splitter, a better under-engine cover, or even add a fan behind the intercooler. Engines are engines, and engines get dirty. Putting a cover on top just helps hide the dirt from the average joe and makes it look fancy. Honestly, my engine cover would just pile leaves and maple copters on top of my intercooler, which obviously blocks airflow. Also, I'm pretty sure the main reason why the perrin/avo/mitsimoto intercoolers have it is to keep poeple like you who prefer to keep their engine cover happy. Pretty sure the saggy butt only hurts airflow? Ideally you want a low pressure zone underneath to suck air through the radiator and tmic. Basically the same logic as a rear diffuser.
  5. I just put my car in 5th with the Ebrake up and the crank bolt broke free no problem. It's torqued down pretty tightly so use a the longest breaker bar setup you can make (I used the handle of my jack). I know that the rubber can deteriorate in the crank pulley allowing the outside to spin freely, but I don't think that alone would create that kind of noise. Pull off the crank pulley and inspect the nose of the crankshaft for any wear in the key slot. Also look to see if the crank pulley was rubbing on the timing cover. IMO it sounds more like one of the timing pulleys is shot
  6. You won't notice any added NVH with the bushings. It was a really nice upgrade from my 10 year old half-attached bushings. Part of me kinda wishes I went with the the all metal race version that Perrin offers. KCA313 is borderline required with lowered cars. Makes the car feel much more stable on bumpy highways. Replacing the ball joints can be brutal on these old cars, so just plan accordingly.
  7. One of my favorite wheels that I hardly ever see. I'd pick up a spare set for $400 in a heartbeat. It's a tight fit, but at least you now have the option to run brembos. Plus you now have dual valve stems because racecar
  8. I appreciate the search, I'm hoping someone has it in their download folder. Install and wiring was super easy, clearly a lot of design work was put into this thing. It works fine, displays my boost numerically, but it doesn't have the continuous graph of boost (Imo the coolest part). So that leaves me with a few questions. I'm able to cycle the different displays on right screen, but it's still not updating. Two of the graph displays are labeled "AP" and "BP". I'm guessing BP is "Boost Pressure" but I don't know what AP is for. Either way, none of them are updating. Is there a specific option in the settings that I'm missing? I'll try to upload all my settings in a bit. I only used two of the wires (red - 12v on Ing, blk - Ground). I'm guessing the other two are for dimming and maybe debugging/serial. None of these need to be grounded or have 12v right? It came with a bunch of audio, usb, and serial cables as well as a "aux splitter" board. I'm assuming these are for Air/fuel and oil pressure. Do I need to plug in any of these in order for it to work? Seems legit
  9. So I was lucky enough to snag one of these the other day and I just finished installing it. Unfortunately is seems like the OP's website is down and I kinda doubt it's ever coming back. I don't suppose anyone here has a copy of the user manual? This thing is way too fancy for me and I'm having some issues setting it up to graph boost.
  10. If you have some left over pulleys from a timing belt change, they're the perfect size for punching out the old bushing.
  11. A LGT was my first car, and now my second. If I wasn't 18 at the time I would still have my first legacy. Yes these cars are fast, but they aren't performance cars. Drive it like a performance car and you'll end up like me. If you can actually afford one and want to learn how to work on it yourself, get one. I'm sure that's terrible advice, but it was the best decision I ever made. Get one without any modifcations. No coilovers, no intakes, no stage 87384 clutch, no ebay turbos. Maybe an accessport, maybe a quiet exhaust. Look for extensive maintenance records, spend at least $5500.
  12. Just installed these yesterday. In order to use the roll center kit you need to remove the conical adapter (Subaru P# 20216FA000). You need a pitman arm puller or a press to pop them off. I highly recommend you just spend the $15 and get the arm puller. It's the only good way to remove the LCA without ruining the ball joint. Well worth it btw
  13. How did you remove the tapered shim/insert from the ball joints? I gave it a few love taps in the vice and it seemed pretty cozy. I assumed it's pressed on but I haven't checked for threads.
  14. While it's not an easy print for FDM printers, breaking it into two pieces should make this easy. This was really my plan all along. I think the best approach initially is to have it press-fit together (like a pvc coupler). Although I would strongly suggest printing this in ABS or some other non-PLA material. I would be weary of it melting after leaving this exposed to the sun in the summer or pumping heat through it in the winter. I'll finish the design if someone can get me a STEP or solidworks file.
  15. So while this thread is at the top, did anyone ever upload the stl/step file of the vent gauge pod? I've spent way too long digging through this thread with no luck so far. IMO this is the cleanest place to mount gauges and I'm planning on printing my own at some point. I don't really care how many gauges / what size gauge, I'm mostly just looking for a model of the vent so that I don't have to start from scratch. If anyone has the model I'd really appreciate a Solidworks .sldprt or a STEP file.
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