Casezilla

Thanks, I'll look into that

I'm not sure about the fuel trims, I don't have any logging equipment. The powertrain is stock (original turbo ), stock map (). Sounds like logging would be the next step, I might even be able to borrow some logging equipment, but it also couldn't hurt to clean the MAF and check for vacuum leaks.

When my ECU gets reset (e.g. due to battery being unplugged), the car stalls when slowing to a stop for a bit (probably takes ~10-20 miles of driving) until the ECU can properly adjust. Other than when coming to a stop, it starts and idles just fine (e.g. no stall on initial startups after the ECU is reset). No codes get thrown when this happens. Is this potentially an indication of some sort of issue (AFR issue due to bad sensors or injectors?), or something that isn't too unusual for an older turbo Subaru (216k miles)?

Can anyone confirm 806922120 is the proper part number for the oil filler tube o-ring? One genuine parts site is telling me this fits an '05 LGT, but a few others are saying it doesn't fit Legacys (but then don't seem to show an o-ring for the filler in the catalog). If not 806922120, any ideas?

Well that is great news! Thanks for the pics as well Max Capacity.

That is the O-ring for the oil cooler, correct? Looks like coolant needs to be drained for that (in addition to the oil), so I'm kicking myself for not posting these photos right when I took them, which happened to be when I was replacing the radiator and changing oil (among other things)...

Not usually (generally always use a funnel), but I won't say it's never happened . There was one time I only had a full gallon oil jug and no funnel and needed to add a bit of oil, and the initial pour made a bit of a mess (in retrospect I should've found a smaller container or a cup to pour some oil into so I could've just poured directly into the filler), but that was years ago at this point. I did clean this up as best I could after finishing the plugs (after these pics). I need to pop the underbody cover off again and see how things are looking.

Anyone have an idea of what might be leaking oil (other than everything )? Engine still is running great (and stock turbo is still chugging along @ 216k miles w/ stock-catted-uppipe ), and I'm diligent about keeping oil level topped off (usually needs a quart every 500-1k miles), but this car is finally no longer going to be my DD so I'll have the time to do repairs that I previously would've had to pay a mechanic for due to needing the work done fast. 2nd timing belt is also almost due, which might be a good time to tackle some leaks, depending on their cause. Also trying to get a feel for how serious this could be before spending too much time/money on other maintenance/fixes. Some things one mechanic mentioned as possibilities a while ago were the oil cooler, head gaskets () or valve cover gaskets. One thing I've already checked is that there is blow back from the oil filler as well as suction from the oil filler when covered w/ my hand while the engine is running w/ the oil fill cap off. I believe this rules out a PCV system issue. Would a compression and/or leakdown test be recommended prior to making any assumptions of the cause? Anyway, here's an album w/ some pics that I took while changing spark plugs a few months ago: https://imgur.com/a/pFCtl15 As well as a few of the more revealing pics... Can see some fresh wetting from the front drivers side plug area with the coil pack removed: From below: Cooler/filter: Full view of the pan:

The muffler connections aren't looking too hot, cat side isn't as bad.

Does this still apply if I just replace the whole intermediate pipe section (Y pipe + resonator + straight pipe that goes to the cat) with OEM (hopefully used). I'd plan on buying new bolts/nuts/gaskets for the Y-pipe to muffler interface (same w/ the cat side connection), as the existing hardware there is all very rusted. Will there still be reassembly issues when using new hardware?

What does deleting or replacing the resonator entail? Is there some bolt on solution for this, or does it require someone with welding experience to hack things up and weld them together? Since the "rear exhaust pipe" part is long and includes the resonator (the Y from the back of the mufflers all the way to before the resonator is all a single part from what I can tell), I'm assuming it's the later?

I've actually been out New Mexico this past year. I believe they did salt (or something else) after snows, but it only snowed 2 or 3 days this past winter where I'm at (car probably saw more snow on out of state ski trips than at home). The previous 9 years I owned the car though it lived less than a mile from the ocean, which does result in some increased corrosion I believe. Good to hear it doesn't look too bad.

I'll have a shop in town take a look and see what they think re: welding, as I have no experience in that department. Looks like new OEM replacement is only ~$330 shipped, so not the end of the world worst case. I've been planning on selling the car soon as I've been finding myself needing something with more clearance recently (believe it was a dirt road rock that finally did this in, though I'm sure the rust made the job easier), so it probably isn't worth fixing this via an aftermarket upgrade. Used OEM would be ideal, but I imagine finding someone willing to ship one for a reasonable price might be tough given how large this part is. e: on the plus side, the car does sound great bypassing the rear pipe and mufflers

The rear exhaust pipe on my '05 LGT has completely severed at the resonator (or what is listed as the 'chamber' in the FSM). Is this repairable via shoving the two sides back together and welding, or does the whole rear exhaust pipe need to be replaced? From what I can tell, the rear exhaust pipe is a long, single part that includes the resonator, so there's no way to buy the resonator separately. Here are some pics: https://i.imgur.com/mwBW8tQ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/AjuqUd0.jpg

From memory, that's the antenna wire. I'd bet if you had followed that wire for a foot or so into the car you would have found a connector that you could have undone w/o having to cut anything.