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wintergreen

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    2005 Legacy GT Limited Wagon

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  1. Recently when taking the small M5 nuts off the fuel tank studs to remove the fuel pump one of them even after cleaning and carefully trying to walk the nut off the stud it snapped the stud off of the tank. It looks like they are pressed in knurled studs. The studs are pressed into a metal ring that is some how attached to the fuel tank. Anyone have a similar situation, and how did you repair it?
  2. I understand the my 2005 LGT has B25 heads on it and in later years they came with D25 heads that had higher compression ratios. Will a short block from a 2007 WRX to replace my 2005 LGT block work? I will be putting the B25 heads on it. The block should be identical, I'm not sure about the piston dish or dome if there is a difference that would affect compression ratio.
  3. I'm looking for the OEM Subaru FHI Engine gasket kit. The original part number is: 10105AA7209X The is a supersession number of: 10105AA720 There is a $100 difference between part numbers, is the "9X" kit better with some improvement?
  4. For all the OB and OBXT owners out there lowered and on smaller wheels. It looks like the final drive is lower for the Outback vs. the Legacy. Is it possible to run Legacy size tires and rims on an Outback? Will the speedo be way off and the RPMs on the highway run too high?
  5. Are the standard stock head gaskets multi layer steel? Are they good for 330-350 WHP?
  6. Was yours free shipping? From my local dealer there isn't any shipping cost. Amazon has the RA Block 10103AD020 for $1999.95 free shipping.
  7. I wondered about that. Because one place I called said I had an EJ257 in the 2005 LGT. I was sure it was a EJ255. The new part number for the replacement block 10103AC870 fits both the 05-07' LGT and I think the 04-06' STi. What you said the LGT getting an "early 257" make more sense now.
  8. Oh, so you are doing the same build. My local dealer wants $2227.23 FYI I was told by Rallysport Direct the EJ255 heads and RA block have slightly different port position on the cooling ports. They have to be port matched. I checked the head gasket part numbers, they are different numbers, not sure what changes, if its just cooling ports. 2005 LGT HG P/N 11044A642 2019 STi/RA HG P/N 11044AA910
  9. Which OEM short block do you recommend? The 10103AC870 is the current P/N for both a 2005-2007 Legacy GT and 2004-2006 Sti. That can be had for $2k. I've also found the 10103AD020 P/N. That is OEM RA EJ257 for the RA2018/STi 2019-2020. It has forged crank, rods, but improved cast pistons. No idea what bearings. It can be had for $2200. Otherwise I can get parts from someone getting rid of parts. Machined block bored to fit new Upgraded Cast pistons. King rod and main bearings, STi forged rods. I would buy a new 08-11' STi nitrided crank. Build it myself, I'm at $1550 that way. The car had the heads redone 15k miles ago. Current original block already has ARP head studs, Killer B oil pick up, and new timing components along with Gates Kevlar timing belt. I can reuse all those parts. Like you said I would do the 11mm oil pump too.
  10. Chocoholic005 thanks for the response. From what I've read I see 350 WHP is the limit for a "stock" or "stock-ish" bottom end/short block. That is also about the limit of the stock 5MT. I figure I might as well have it tuned up to that and stop there. I agree over 350 WHP is just going to cost a lot of money for little return and usability on the street.
  11. Starting with an EJ255 block. Should I have it machined or new EJ257 block? My goal is 330-350 WHP on e85. I will be converting to top rail 1000cc injectors. What do you recommend for: Forged Pistons? Rods? Bearings? Crank? Part numbers are appreciated. Thanks.
  12. 350 wheel horse power? What is the ratio between wheel and crank horse power. Probably not, I'm at 302HP as it is. If I can squeeze more out of it why not???
  13. Here is the deal, 2005 LGT 5MT, 267k miles original block. Currently have supporting mods and dyno tune making 302 WHP/ 326 WTQ. Max I would go is 400/400. Still have to do a leak down test, but think I might need a new short block. How much WHP can a stock OEM EJ255 handle? If I end up needing a new short block I'm looking at which direction to go and looking for advice. I have the ability to build my own setup. I have tools and specs as well as a helping hand to build my own EJ255. That is a whole other matter what I should all put into it. Rods, Pistons (cast vs Forged). I'd do new case halves and crank. Other option is stock EJ255 or EJ257 and call it a day. I'm looking to keep the cost down. I will have the whole thing professionally dyno tuned. Any help or point me in the correct direct is appreciated.
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