Mr.RMFC

Just a quick update. The P0420 or whatever code was fixed with another new sensor and the P0011 code was fixed by removing the banjo bolt filter (which I was told was removed by previous owner). Now the car is running fine tho the turbo will not boost past 12 PSI so i might have to adjust the wastegate or something

Hey Guys, I need some help. So this is what has happened over the summer i was getting the P0011 code whenever my oil levels got low. Turns out my turbo was on the way out aswell as it then blew in August. I replaced the turbo and the code went away for a little. Then it started coming back again so I replaced the Cam Shaft position sensor in addition to the Oil pressure switch. The code went away for about 2 weeks. Than one day the car stalled out and threw the P0340 Code at me. This led me to believe I got a faulty sensor. just today had the sensor replaced and now the P0011 code is back. What should I do next? VVT Solenoid?

There is a guy on Facebook selling the clock relocation kit.

No metal in the oil that i can see. I will be taking the car to a shop to determine the cause of the turbo going. No not a catastrophic failure but something went. Canada is bad for aftermarket support. If i were to have it rebuilt I would send it to Alberta (I am in Saskatchewan). A local shop I talked to said that they highly recommend JM Turbo's which would be a bit cheaper than a rebuild. I drove it maybe 17kms after the incident going slow, low revs and not boosting to get to a nearby town. than had the car shipped home. If it is the block then I will be parting out the car and getting a new one.

Im going to get killed on shipping if i have to send the turbo from canada to the usa. Where would you guys suggest looking for a new turbo? what brands? ect? I am not going to the dealership lol.

JM Turbo is what i was looking at. seen different reviews on them but the general idea is so long as you are not trying to do a build with them they are decent.

So the turbo went on my 05 lgt. i think it was from an oiling issue since i would periodically get a P0011 code when my oil would get low due to a leak. So looking at getting a new turbo (also going to fix the leak and take it to a shop to diagnose the code and make sure the oil lines to the turbo are fine). but question for the turbo. What should i get? Vf40 cartridge ($240 + install), vf40 new turbo ($300), vf46($350). I dont think I want the 52 at this point. main question is: I know the vf46 is a direct bolt on. but will i require a custom protune on the car? I am currently running a 06 ECU with the cobb stage 2 tune on it. I want to get the car protuned at some point but its a couple hour drive to the shop to do it. Can i install the 46 and run it on the same tune or will that cause problems? What are the main differences between the 40 and the 46 if they are brand new turbos? if i go with the 46, do i need to modify anything on the turbo or switch anything over from the old turbo?

I ended up just ordering an oem replacement from rock auto

More like all our car parts come from the US so the shops here charge their markup which is ridiculous. I can get a Rad delivered to my house for $110 from RockAuto while the local shop would charge $240 for the same radiator

Max Capacity. I have came across some good deals. Only thing is that I live in Canada so as soon as I go to purchase i get killed on shipping, duty, and exchange rate.

So an update on the jerking. I reset my ECU and updated my accessport and it seems to eliminate the jerking. On occasion it will throw a P0011 code but its very intermittent and seems to only happen when oil is low (its leaking from somewhere). But another thing, would anyone know if the radiator from a 2004 WRX fit on the 05 LGT?

I had both heads completely redone since one needed a valve job anyways. and the fluxuating temp has stopped once I topped up the coolant. seems it got really low and wasnt getting proper circulation so the sensor would heat up at times. its fine now for temp tho Im still loosing coolant from the rad being damaged

So just some new thoughts. I think the rad was blown when I put it back in after the rebuild as I immediately saw some coolant on the engine from the rad after the first drive. The rad had sat for months in a Canadian winter without running and there were times it went colder outside than the coolant is rated for and since i was not running the car, i think thats when it cracked and has just gotten worse since. I see liquid on the top of the rad when It full. MaxCapacity, you are right, it seems to jerk right around the 2400rpm range sometimes a bit lower.

The jerking seems to start right around 2k rpm. The spark plugs are brand new NGK Iridium IX plugs.

So it seems my Rad blew. I have coolant all over the front of my engine and now my temp gauge is fluxuating (Stays at normal temp, than if idling it goes up and sits there until I either start driving or i rev the engine). Also just rebuilt the engine so I had it out. But going back to the radiator. What other Subarus have the same radiator? And which ones could I get as an Aluminum Rad? Also, If anyone knows why my car would be jerking between 2-3k rpm, not giving me proper power or boost? Im thinking fuel issue or coils?