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Acerguy

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  • Location
    Waterloo, Wisconsin
  • Car
    '08 OB 2.5i 5MT, '03 Legacy L SE wagon
  • Interests
    Cycling, gardening, welding
  • Occupation
    Engineer

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  1. A follow up on my post from last month. I did go ahead and have the dealership replace my sticky dash and they ended up doing a great job. The tech apparently spent a LOT of hours on it and I'm happy to report no scratches, dents or squeaks. Again, it was in for the airbag replacement and, while that dealership typically does not pull the whole dash for that job, they apparently gave me some credit for the labor. In the end, the part cost around $600 and with labor the whole affair cost about a grand. Maybe silly to spend that on a 13 year old car with 80k miles on it but I plan on keeping this thing for a while and it sure is nice not having a ugly, sticky dash that collects every piece of lint and dust that passes by.
  2. Thanks. Yeah, I've confirmed that at least my local dealer does NOT remove the top of the dash for this repair currently. Unfortunately. Still undecided if I want to go ahead and get a new one or just live with it.
  3. Good tip. I'll dig a little further. Thanks again. EDIT: Found out the local dealer does NOT pull the top of the dash for this service. Boo.
  4. FYI - I got a link to the actual procedure and it seems to indicate that the current instructions are to remove "the instrument panel assembly in addition to the related interior trim components" (see page 21). Doesn't sound like the top of the dash is actually removed. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2020/RCRIT-20V003-7963.pdf?fbclid=IwAR16Gi7pz9jmDnGbPd4MlkkBHh2XtjVKQv7keRfaXq30aS0zaaU5AwcclUY
  5. I got a link to the actual procedure and it seems to indicate that the current instructions are to remove "the instrument panel assembly in addition to the related interior trim components" (see page 21). Doesn't sound like the top of the dash is actually removed. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2020/RCRIT-20V003-7963.pdf?fbclid=IwAR16Gi7pz9jmDnGbPd4MlkkBHh2XtjVKQv7keRfaXq30aS0zaaU5AwcclUY
  6. I finally made an appointment to get the 2nd airbag (passenger) recall done on my '08 Outback. I would like to get the sticky dash replaced while they're in there but it sounds like the "official" procedure does not require removing the dash for this. The local dealer is giving me a estimate for the labor of anywhere from 1 to 9 hours depending on brittleness of clips and what not.
  7. Thanks! I didn't think to look in that thread. Yeah this seems to jibe with what I've heard elsewhere. Sure wish the original owner had done the sticky dash replacement when it was under the extended warranty bulletin. Local dealer quotes me about $600 for the dash but says that the labor could be anywhere from an hour or so to 8 or 9 depending on clips breaking and other unforeseen issues. I'm just not sure that the sticky dash bothers me THAT much.
  8. Well, I finally made an appointment to get the 2nd airbag (passenger) recall done on my '08 Outback. I would like to get the sticky dash replaced while they're in there but there seems to be some uncertainty if the dash actually has to be fully removed for this recall. Anyone out there that's had the TKC20-2 recall performed know if the dash has to come out as part of the service? Thanks!
  9. I finally got around to installing the 1" saggy butt spacers I've had for about a year. Brought the rear (Legacy suspension) up perfectly for my uses with just a touch of positive rake. Unfortunately, the other thing I did simultaneously was scratch the crap out of part of my tailgate when I took a break and decided to close the garage door while the lid was up and the car was on jack stands. DOH!
  10. I've been curious about the Feal "max travel" coilovers. They don't show up on their web page but I've had some conversations with them and they do make a Legacy/OB application. http://feal-suspension6.mybigcommerce.com/coilovers-max-travel-441/?sort=featured&page=1
  11. My favorite YT auto diagnostician, Ivan at Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, has a new Outback-specific video today! (He has an excellent video on replacing Subaru CV boots which I've posted several times before)
  12. First I would recommend you head over to http://www.willtheyfit.com and take a look at what the stock wheel/tire setup looks like compared to what you've got. The 30mm offset with that tire size is going to be problematic without a lot of work is my guess. Second would be to find the post from Thomistopheles that shows how he fit his wheels...specifically how he trimmed the fender flairs. Here you go: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/thomistopheles-06-obxt-limited-baller-husky-hauler-iii-247594.html?p=5337565#post5337565 Good luck!
  13. x3. You will want the UCA and bump stops. I didn't change my bump stops at first and was constantly bottoming out on them. It's super easy to change them anyhow. Yes, they are surprisingly expensive new. I picked up all my bits from the Classifieds here. Find someone parting out a LGT and you're good to go.
  14. Well, if you want to go lower than LGT, you probably don't want the OB-specific coilovers. Assuming the coils have built in bump stops, you'll probably ditch the stock ones altogether. I'm currently on a straight LGT swap but running stock OB-sized rubber and wheels and have no rubbing BUT I also only have about 10mm of clearance between the tire and the front spring perches.
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