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bugblatterbeast

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  1. Figured I'd post an update now that it is hot out. I've had a chance to drive in 33C weather. shifting is smooth and there are no odd noises or scratchy feeling like the previous Motul fill had. Also, I found a local store that sells this lube for $16.96 CND / litre. That's half the cost of Motul & no shipping hassles.
  2. Checking in. Now that I've had a chance to drive the car in some colder weather, I can say the current fill is the best I've used so far. At -15 to -20C, you can shift up and down relatively normally right away. The first dozen shifts are a little slower, but there's no roughness or grinding, which is way better than the results I had with Gear 300. With gear 300 downshifts were always rough in the cold and the first 2-1 downshift of the day would sometimes grind. No so with the current mix. Also, the whirring noise when in neutral, with cold gear oil on a downslope has gone away. Thinking back, every single MT gear box I've driven shifted better with a PAO oil vs an Ester oil and the current fill happens to be a PAO oil. Maybe someone with a chemistry background can chime in.
  3. I had a chance to drive the car a few times at zero and sub-zero temps. The coldest was only -7C. The current fill is much better than the previous gear 300 fill. At -7C up shifts and down shifts feel much the same as at 10C. The shifts are a little heavier, but not by much. After the first min or two of driving, you don't even notice that it is cold out. The shifts remain smooth while the previous fill was a bit rough when doing a cold 2->1 down shift. Once we get some -20 to -30c conditions, I'll be able to do a better comparison. I have a good feeling about the current fill. The differentials are definitely tighter now. I have to use slightly lower DCCD settings in the snow/slush to get the same planted feeling I had with the motul fill. I won't be switching back to motul. This fill is both better shifting and more cost effective. I might actually try this stuff (or possibly just the AC Delco MTF) in the FR-S when it is due for its next change.
  4. Hi, I'm planning to do a pre-emptive rebuild and was wondering if I can get some advice. For the short block, I'm planning to just order a stock type RA block. I will import this because Subaru Canada won't sell a new short block. I spoke to a few dealers and they indicate that they only exchange rebuilt blocks and save the new ones for warranty work. For those who have shipped a block to Canada, any issues with Fedex mangling the delivery? Are the blocks generally well packaged? For the heads, I'm debating if I should simply order new castings and valves as needed. The issue I'm facing is that I don't have access to a good machine shop locally, and the cost of shipping the heads two ways will be more than half the cost of new castings. For the guys who have done this before, could you advise if the valves are selective fit to the guides or can I just order new valves and new head castings and only need to deal with lapping and lashing the valves. I was also wondering how often used heads have cracks that make them unsuitable for rebuilding. I'll be using B25 heads. Thanks in advance
  5. update: The shift feel shifted a bit after a few hundred km. It wasn't bad, but not the same as right after the fluid swap. Instead of shifting in gear in a single motion, the feel became two step, the kind of feeling you get when the synchro sleeve hangs up a little after sliding over the blocker ring but before engaging the mating part on the gear. I figured there was no way the viscosity of the fluid changed in a few hundred km and the change in feeling must have been the old adsorbed friction modifiers coming off the synchros. To test if this was the case, I added 180mL of the friction modifier I had previously used with Motul Gear 300 (previous fill). I'm pleased to report the shifting feel immediately returned to the way it was just after the gear oil change, and has remained that way for more than 1000km. The current mix in the gear box is 4L LiquiMoly 2048 + ~ 180mL friction modified 75w85 manual trans lube. IIRC, it was the AC Delco rebrand of Castrol Syntrans. I'll dig up the part number the next time I'm in the garage. So far both the 5MT and 6MT have responded really well to small amounts of the friction modifier. As for viscosity over temperature, the LiquiMoly 2048 is the best I've used so far for the bulk of the fill. The only oddity I've noticed so far, which doesn't really bother me, is the front LSD feels like it is a little tighter than before. Cornering with a little power applied, and corner exits feel better, but there is a little tire noise and chatter when in reverse, wheel turned to lock.
  6. Yes. Same stuff. I've seen it sold under both names up here, depending on the store.
  7. the pricing was pretty good, all things considered. we have extra retail markups in Canada, so relative pricing might make more sense. the LubriMoly was $22.50 / Liter. Gear 300 up here goes for ~ $28 to 35 /liter these days. The last time I bought Redline oil (probably 3 years ago) it went for $19 / quart.... inflation. a decade ago I used to buy gear 300 for $17 /liter (shipped to my door). I also have some Titan Sintofluid on hand. Its a 70w80 GL5 MTF. If the oil is too heavy come winter, I'll drain out 0.5L and mix in the Sintofluid. On paper, this will thin the LubriMoly to the bottom end of the 75w90 spec, bringing the hot viscosity close to Extra-S, but the cold viscosity will be way better. I previously doped the Gear 300 with a little GM 75w-85w MTF to get some friction modifiers without shifting the viscosity much, but the first few cold shifts were still a little iffy (-20 to -40c days), especially downshfits into 1st without a double-declutch. I"m hoping the Lubrimoly will be fine on its own, or with a bit of sintofluid mixed in.
  8. I just changed my transmission oil today and I'm please to say that the gear box shifts better with Lubri Moly 2048 than anything else I've used previously. With the limited number of GL-5 rated oils that shift well, I'm happy to have found another one. Previous fills: Subaru Extra-S, Redline 75w90NS, Amsoil SVG, Mobil 1, Motul Gear 300, Gear 300 + shockproof, Gear 300 + GM FM MTF. Gear 300 + the GM FM MTF was a close second, followed by Gear 300 + shockproof. I'll post again in a year, once I've had a chance to do some winter driving on the new fill. Judging by how much lighter the shifter was compared to the Gear 300 +GM MTF that was just drained, I think the new mix might end up being quite good in the winter.
  9. IIRC, you need to zero both the learning and correction limits for AF3.
  10. https://www.lencocanada.com/files_600-02/600-02.pdf #31 rod easier than welding as you don't melt the base metal. much stronger than epoxy. I've never been a fan of epoxy repairs, unless your are using a Novolac chemistry... even then, there are so many variants and fillers. The common BPA based epoxies don't tend to take heat or chemical exposure well.
  11. I have the mevotechs on my car. the bushings were shot after about 1 year. I had the bushings replaced with whiteline urethane bushings. the car tracks a lot better with the urethane bushings compared to the solid rubber bushings even when they were new (and the solid rubber was much better than stock). with the urethane bushings, noticeably less steering input is needed. if I were doing it again, I'd ditch the rubber bushings from the start.
  12. AC Delco 10953477. It doesn't take much to do the job. So far I haven't found anything else that made the 5MT shift as well. The last fill was Motul Gear 300, to which I added the Delco product 100mL at a time. By ~ 300mL, the gear box shifted better than new, and also better than the Motul 300/Shockproof combo. That being said, there was probably still some shockproof in the box from the last fill.
  13. Hi, If you can, put the car up on 4 stands, facing a safe direction (not in garage) and confirm that the clutch is actually disengaging fully. I had a new clutch fail to fully disengage when brand new, but after some wear it started working right. It dragged just enough to cause some occasional problems in 2nd and 4th. If the clutch is disengaging properly, I would ditch the 75w90NS and dump some cheap conventional gear oil in to see if things improve. I ran 75w90NS years ago, and ditched it pretty quickly because 2nd would grind. Subaru Extra-S fixed that problem for nearly a decade. When I could no longer get Extra-S, Motul Gear 300 doped with ~ 0.5L of Shockproof worked. Even better than that blend was MotulGear 300 doped with the GM branded version of Castrol Syntrans (it only took 2-300 mL IIRC). I'll try to dig up the part number.
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