ronemus

You did a hard reset on the electronics when it went dead. You may have to crank a while to build fuel pressure. It is possible that one or more of the fuel injectors is gummed up, but it would snort and jump if it ha a couple working. I'd recommend getting a can of starting fluid and have somebody spray it into the air intake while you crank it; if you have spark it will run briefly. Modern chargers won't function with a completely dead battery, but the better ones (and jump packs) have an override button so you can tell it that there is actually a battery there. If you have a jump pack, usually you can bring it up from 0 with that and the charger will take it from there.

Unless VERY heavily modified, your engine would resemble a large grenade at 10,000 rpm, much less 15,000!

Production usually precedes manual revisions -- they don't generally factor into purchasing decisions.

If an alignment is done properly, the wheel will point straight up. It requires that the front toe bet set to spec at the same tie at the same time as the wheel points up; this is done by adjusting the steering linkage. You could do it yourself if you carefully adjust the tie rods by exactly the same amount in opposite directions until the wheel is centered; however, you will have no way of knowing whether the toe is out of adjustment. The centering of the wheel can only be assessed by a road test - it can't be seen on the rack unless it's grossly out of adjustment. Some shops will call it good enough if it's fairly close so they won't have to put the car back on the rack for a mini-alignment (front toe only).

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I didn't realize the range of dates was so restricted - it did apply to my late-year production '17 2.5i.

The remaining range is calculated and cannot be totally relied on. There is a recall that updates the firmware to improve that feature. Has your car been done?

+1 for the DWS06+ - I've used them on my '17 and '02. Good performance in the snow and on pavement, quiet,and long-lived. I've gotten 40k+ on all 3 sets I've owned; not bad for a performance tire. I think the 245/45 is a good compromise for a DD; I've had 40 profile, but the ride was harsher than I like for street use. Note that with the 245s on a 5th gen a reduced offset is needed to clear the front struts; I use a 38 offset (19" Enkei Raijin wheels) on my '17.

I use Moog adjustable arms on my Gen 5 Outback (bought from Rock Auto); much less expensive, but not available for all models/years.

StopTech Sport+ - great bite, easy modulation, low-to-moderate fade, not particularly dusty.

I tried Z26 pads and they were better than OEM, but not by much. The StopTech Sport+ pads are hugely better.

Do you have EyeSight? If so, it probably had a hiccup - it's fairly commom and leads some folks to turn it off. I bought a trim level without EyeSight so I wouldn't have to put up with a demented nanny.

IIRC that vintage uses the signal from one of the ABS sensors - usually it just needs to be realigned, but sometimes must be replaced. It's possible to knock the tone ring off, but that isn't likely if the wheels were not removed for the service. Did they do a tire rotation?

Moog is much less expensive if it's available for your model - check Rock Auto for fitment. I have them on the rear of my '17 Outback (5th gen), which also fit the 6th gen Legacy. I have been quite happy with them; they have sufficient adjustment that I can run a non-standard alignment (0.00* toe and -0.5* camber at all 4 corners) on my standard-height '17 OB.

Could it be for the grille shutter?