Inigo Montoya

For the swaybar endlink, I just used an appropriate sized allen wrench.

When I did mine I did not have time to have the dealership do it, so I figured I would try it on my own. That being said I think I caught mine quickly, as I have put 10K on the car since and have not had any problems, once I cleaned out the old grease and inspected everything, it looked fine. I did get the grease kit, boot and bands from the dealership. Oh, I just edited the original post to reflect that I did not replace the green 'cup'

There is no specific cause/effect about the downpipe being so close to the boot, so I cannot say for certain. I have seen online more people having problems with the passenger side, so I would say that it could not hurt at this point, I am going to replace my shorty one with a full length downpipe and will probably go with coating or wrapping at that point.

I had the one side pretty far up, I use heavy duty jackstands when working on the subie. I did not strap down the boot until I had everything else ready to go, the straps went on and then I popped the axle back into place.

I checked both Checkers (Kragan) and Autozone, neither had it to even order, did not check Napa though.

It looks like the correct part to me, what I have read though is that many pwople have problems with non-oem axles. However for that price, I would try that first.

That is really really lucky, most shops charge more than that just to replace the boots.

So take off the 3 bearings, and you then need to get the little end piece off, the ball joint with the posts for the bearings, there is a snap retaining ring at the top of this thing. Once you get that off I use my rubber mallet to knock it off. Next? Clean like you life depends on it, I use up a can and a half of the cleaner I was using then I inspected all the parts, no wear or scoring that I could see on any of the metal surfaces. I then started putting it back together: End piece with new boot, bearings and a bit of new grease. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3652/3393873378_94d2dc9b49.jpg?v=0 New Green Cup with grease packed in it. Edit: For clarification, I reused all the old parts except the boot, bands and grease, the green 'cup' was the same one. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3590/3393874470_4600e4ff0c.jpg?v=0 It was at this point that putting it back together that I broke one of the straps to hold down the boot and had to go to the store to get a new one, that sucked, so if you can avoid doing that, go right ahead. I was pretty much able to just start reassembling everything together after that. Don't forget to put the retaining ring back in the green cup, I would hate for the to separate later. When I put the sway bar back on, I had to use my allen key set and a 14mm ratcheting wrench to get it back on. Also had to use the jack to get it ligned back up, but doing that popped the lower ball joint back into place with no problem, score! Don't forget to hit the axle nut back into place, I killed another screwdriver hammering it in. Torque down Axle Nut to 137 Ft lbs That should be it. Now rebuilding it may not last as long, but it is sure cheaper, so I hope this helps out the other folks in the Subaru community. Please feel free to chime in with any other hints or tips and I will add them to the walkthrough.

I was then able to push back the axle a bit into the transmission, and with a touch of elbow grease pop the axle out of the main hub. The hub swings easily out of the way at this point. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3578/3393061687_0ea4b6b018.jpg?v=0 Then tug out the other end from the transmission *POP* Also, my transmission did drain about a cup of fluid out of the hole, I think that no more than that came out since I only had one side of the car jacked up. On the WRX they talk about a retaining pin, but I never saw anything like that on my car. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3601/3393872558_80f5fcb09c.jpg?v=0 Fun with Icky Crap! Now at this point if you just purchase a new one you can just pop in the new axle and put everything back together. This would not be hard. Do keep in mind that the WRX guys just say to buy a new one, but they can get re manufactured axles from Autozone or Checkers for around 60-70 dollars, we do not have that option (unless someone wants to test fit one ) I decided to go full throttle, so those of you that are with me continue. I cut off my old boot after taking off the two retaining straps, since it was torn anyway, I would not be reusing it. Now to pull off the green "cup" there is a little retaining wire on the inside, you may not be able to see it easily, but it is there, used the needle nose to get it off. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3601/3393062883_b383e488b3.jpg?v=0 This....this is messy!!! http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3473/3393873726_b32aa6a8a0.jpg?v=0 Here is the end with the three bearings on it, thes slip off easily, BEWARE! http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3656/3393060399_d8105f5ac8.jpg?v=0 Blurry Pics FTW, but I didn't want to hold my camera for long with the mess I was making.

This is what I did for my 2006 Legacy GT, other years may be different. So recently (like a number of us out there) I looked under my car an found that I had torn one of my CV boots, specifically the front passenger one. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3642/3393868684_d79d9b2f16.jpg?v=0 Ewwwww http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3539/3393868502_32a55ceeb0.jpg?v=0 So Like a good subaru owner I decided to fix it myself. Now in my case I actually rebuilt the cv joint, most people would recommend just replacing the whole thing. After doing this job, I might be inclined to agree. However, doing it myself cost me about 40 dollars (parts and Axle nut socket) versus $340 for an OEM one. If you do the whole rebuild and have never done one before, it took me 3-4 hours, if I was just doing the axle, it would have been about 20-30 minutes. Here was my Tool List: Breaker Bar, long one. 32mm Socket to break the axle nut 14 MM Socket 14mm Wrench Allen key set for swaybar BFH Rubber Mallet Snap Ring Pliers needle nose pliers 2 flathead screwdrivers (small) 2 Cans of brake/engine degreaser/cleaner Gloves Lots of paper towels Parts: New boot and greese kit from local Subaru Dealership. New strap for cv boot from Checkers, since one of mine broke, you can try reusing the ones you have on there though. I used these directions in this thread as reference, but things were slightly different, close but not quite- http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1393149&highlight=axle+replacement First Raise the car and I put a jack stand under the passenger front side of the car, took off the rim and tire and went to town Unstake the axle nut (you will see it is crimped) I used a screwdriver and my BFH) Killed two screwdrivers Then since I have an aircompressor, fired up the impact wrench and took off the axle nut. Since it is supposed to be torqued down to 137 foot pounds, I set the compressor at 150 and my gun to max. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3622/3393058887_7e8bc16344.jpg?v=0 Next I removed the bottom swaybar bolt with my 14 MM socket (it went back on differently, use the allen key and a 14 mm open or ratcheting wrench if you need too) http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3449/3393869516_581a718679.jpg?v=0 I had to jack up the bottom so the bolt would pop out http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3555/3393870744_8d8d700e21.jpg?v=0 Then I took off the lower ball joint retaining nut, looking at directions online without pictures, finding this thing was a real AH-HA moment. I believe this was also 14mm, but may have been 17mm. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3467/3393059693_22791b8810.jpg?v=0 I was then able to take my prybar and just pop out the balljoint, this was really pretty easy. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3564/3393871468_1e260cd336.jpg?v=1238288582

Is the advantage just pulling more air through? I would think that you would be pulling more hot air from the engine bay, maybe a heat shield of some sort on the right side to help..... Nice fabbing!