wiscogtlimited

1024794 wiscogtlimited unknown build date purchased in Sept 2014 wisconsin cobb stg 1 OTS

2012 Legacy GT 37, Male Sales Manager 7th subaru (91 legacy LS, 98 legacy OB, 01 legacy gt ltd, 06 forester xt (wife's), 08 tribeca (wife's), 05 legacy gt ltd) Bone stock at this point.

In response to the tip you gave, are you saying depress the pedal with a block of wood prior to compressing the calipers??? I have always just opened the cap on the master cylinder reservoir and pumped the brakes a couple times until the air has been bled. Also, just in case I do need to replace the rotors, do you have any buying advice. I prob going to use duralast ceramic premium pads, but dont know how crazy to go with rotors if they are necessary. They range in price from about $30 to over $100 each. You are the second person to say avoid the drilled rotors, and I dont think that I am going to need slotted. Any buying advice in addition to my above question would be appreciated. thanks

My brake pads up front just started chirping last night (pad sensor I am guessing) and I was thinking about changing out my brakes this weekend. I have observed many brake changes and have done it myself on my wife's forester turbo and on my old 01 LGT and I replaced pads and rotors each time. In the past I have simply changed both out because of the cost savings of doing it myself. I did a quick visual inspection and the rotors up front seem clean still, so it is my takeaway from your writeup that there is no need to swap, or even turn the rotors.....is that right? That would be a huge cost savings for me and would be awesome if the rotors are still good. My 05 legacy gt is my baby and I want to do what is right, but also only spend money on what is necessary. Any advice would be appreciated.

Did the job this past saturday and it took 2 solid hours. The only hole that gave me issues was the DS rear, as the coil boot did not want to seat right. Took about 10 tries, but it finally went on right. Also, when I checked the new plugs all the gaps were too small. Had to open up all 4 to the .030 mark. Glad I checked this before putting them in. Thankfully the old plugs did not look too bad for being original with 67,000 miles. Car seems to pull a bit stronger with the new plugs. Very do-able job with the right tools. Best advice is to have several 10mm, 12mm and plug sockets available. By having shortys, deep socket, and standards of all (happened to have a shorter plug wrench that gave me a tad bit of extra clearance for the DS rear) three....your life will be a whole lot easier. Nice thing about this job is it also afforded me the opportunity to clean out the engine bay a bit. Shop vac was able to suck quite a bit of leaves and other crap out of there.

I felt it appropriate to post as I used the advice gathered on this thread to solve my issues. About 3 weeks ago my subie started acting up a bit by having a bit of a twitch in the throttle in 1st gear. I kind of chalked it up to miles (152,000) but the car always has run perfect otherwise. I did a brake job Sunday and then Monday on my way to work all hell broke loose and the car ran like absolute crap. Symptoms led me to believe the clutch was going but then it started misfiring badly. I had it scanned and got the P0302 code after I opted out of the $1900 quote I got from a local Subaru dealer (shame on them). I picked up some new plugs (NGK) and a new wire set (NGK), did the install myself, and voilla.......she runs better than ever. I am glad that I did not have to dive into the injectors, coils or any more significant repair. I am glad I trusted my gut and not the dealer. The plugs were just due for replacement at their 60,000 mile interval. I attached a couple of pics to show what the old plugs looked like. There were a couple that appeared to be pretty shabby looking, and I suspect the last mechanic that installed the plugs wrenched on a couple of them a bit too hard. All is good now though.