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[quote name='gtmy04'][quote name='legacy2ner']How should you break in new cars.[/quote] It's quite hard these days, but a brick usually works. Oh, sorry I thought you said "into".[/quote] I tend to prefer a coathanger. I don't like getting glass in my butt. :lol: Since the title was Breakin, I though we were going to get our Electric Boogaloo goin on.
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moved from a different thread. 1000 miles is a general rule for any car. A 1000 mile highway drive is not a break in because there needs to be the various stresses and rpm ranges of daily driving. There are various opinions about how to do this. I remember that Cobb's method is REALLY long. Something like the following: 1st 1000 miles under 3000 rpm :shock: 2nd 1000 miles under 4000 rpm 3rd 1000 miles under 5000 rpm 4th 1000 miles under 6000 rpm If you search on some other boards (nasioc or clubwrx) you will find plenty of discussion. There is an article you can find that I've posted on both of the above boards discussion of the matter of a guy who basically supports no 1000 mile break in. In short, his theory/practice is that the first 20 miles or so are the most important. When it has been delivered to you, go out for a few minutes after the car has fully warmed up and make several full throttle acceleration runs. Then, IMMEDIATELY change the oil, transmission fluid, filters. This is where the most of the metal particles are going to come off, so you get them knocked off and taken out of the oil. As far as I can tell, you can do these initial steps and then proceed with a gentle 1000 miles after that. If your car comes delivered with about 20 miles on it, some 17 year old kid working at the dealership probably already did the acceleration runs for you, so you may want to just get the car fully warmed up and change the fluids/filters. edit: I forgot the part of not using synthetic oil until after a couple of days of hard racing or longer for street driving. Read below for a more detailed description of this guy's method.
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Drive it like you stole it! :twisted: Seriously I would drive the car conservatively for 1000 miles or so. When I broke in my WRX I kept RPMs under 3K or 4K, I can't remember, for 1000 miles. Then I changed the oil. I probably won't be so anal about it this time. I won't drive the car hard for the first 1000, but I will surely make some hard pulls with it. There is no way I can hold back.
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[url=http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm]Here is the article I was looking for.[/url] In case the link ever goes away, here is what it says: Warning: This is a very controversial topic !! I wrote "Break-In Secrets" after successfully applying this method to approximately 300 new engines, all without any problems whatsoever. Links to this article now appear on hundreds of motorsports discussion forums from all over the world. The reason is that over time, large numbers of people have done a direct comparison between my method and the owner's manual method, and the news of their success is spreading rapidly. The results are always the same... a dramatic increase in power at all RPMs. In addition, many professional mechanics have disassembled engines that have used this method, to find that the condition of the engine is actually better than when the owner's manual break-in method has been used. The thing that makes this page so controversial is that there have been many other break-in articles written in the past which will contradict what has been written here. Several factors make the older information on break-in obsolete. The biggest factor is that engine manufacturers now use a much finer honing pattern in the cylinders than they once did. This in turn changes the break-in requirements, because as you're about to learn, the window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with newer engines than it was with the older "rough honed" engines. In addition, there is a lot less heat build up in the cylinders from ring friction due to the finer honing pattern used in modern engines. The other factors that have changed are the vastly improved metal casting and machining technologies which are now used. This means that the "wearing in" of the new parts involves significantly less friction and actual wear than it did in the distant past. With that in mind ... Welcome to one of the most controversial motorsports pages on the internet !! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- How To Break In Your Engine For More Power & Less Wear ! One of the most critical parts of the engine building process is the break in !! No matter how well an engine is assembled, it's final power output is all up to you !! Although the examples shown here are motorcycle engines, these principles apply to all 4 stroke engines: Street or Race Motorcycles, Cars, Snowmobiles, Airplanes & yes ... even Lawn Mowers !! ( regardless of brand, cooling type, or number of cylinders. ) These same break in techniques apply to both steel cylinders and Nikasil, as well as the ceramic composite cylinders that Yamaha uses in it's motorcycles and snowmobiles. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What's the Best Way to Break in a New Engine ?? The Short Answer: Run it Hard ! Why ?? Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber. If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ... How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ?? Of course it can't. How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ?? From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible. The Problem With "Easy Break In" ... The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run. There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !! If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again. Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice, which is why more engines don't have this problem !! An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here's How To Do It: There are 3 ways you can break in an engine: 1) on a dyno 2) on the street, or off road (Motocross or Snowmobile.) 3) on the racetrack -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- On a Dyno: Warm the engine up completely !! Then, using 4th gear: Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from 40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from 40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from 30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes Go For It !! Frequently asked Question: What's a dyno ?? A dyno is a machine in which the bike is strapped on and power is measured. It can also be used to break in an engine. NOTE: If you use a dyno with a brake, it's critical during break - in that you allow the bike to decelerate fully on it's own. (Don't use the dyno brake.) The engine vacuum created during deceleration sucks the excess oil and metal off the cylinder walls to keep the rings from wearing too much. That's why a new engine "smokes" on decel. When you're doing it right, you'll notice that the smoke goes away after about 7-8 runs. Important Note: Many readers have e-mailed to ask about the cool down, and if it means "heat cycling" the engine. No, the above "cool down" instructions only apply if you are using a dyno machine to break in your engine. The reason for cool down on a dyno has nothing to do with "Heat Cycles" !!! Cool Down on a dyno is important since the cooling fans used at most dyno facilities are too small to equal the amount of air coming into the radiator at actual riding speeds. On a dyno, the water temperature will become high enough to cause it to boil out of the radiator after about 4 dyno runs. This will happen to a brand new engine just as it will happen to a very old engine. (Always allow the engine to cool down after 3 runs whenever you use a dyno.) If you're breaking your engine in on the street or racetrack, the high speed incoming air will keep the engine temperature in the normal range. (In other words, you don't have to stop by the side of the road to let your bike cool down.) What about "heat cycling" the engine ?? There is no need to "heat cycle" a new engine. The term "heat cycle" comes from the idea that the new engine components are being "heat treated" as the engine is run. Heat treating the metal parts is a very different process, and it's already done at the factory before the engines are assembled. The temperatures required for heat treating are much higher than an engine will ever reach during operation. The idea of breaking the engine in using "heat cycles" is a myth that came from the misunderstanding of the concept of "heat treating". On the Street: Warm the engine up completely: Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear. Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want anyone to get hit from behind !! The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more and run it through the gears ! Be Safe On The Street ! Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new bike, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process. On the Racetrack: Warm the engine up completely: Do one easy lap to warm up your tires. Pit, turn off the bike & check for leaks or any safety problems. Take a normal 15 minute practice session and check the water temperature occasionally. The racetrack is the perfect environment to break in an engine !! The combination of acceleration and deceleration is just the ticket for sealing the rings. Go For It !! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Yeah - But ... the owner's manual says to break it in easy ... Notice that this technique isn't "beating" on the engine, but rather taking a purposeful, methodical approach to sealing the rings. The logic to this method is sound. However, some will have a hard time with this approach, since it seems to "go against the grain". The argument for an easy break - in is usually: "that's what the manual says" .... Or more specifically: "there may be tight parts in the engine and you might do damage or even seize it if you run it hard." Consider this: Due to the vastly improved metal casting and machining technologies which are now used, tight parts in new engines are an extremely very rare occurrence these days. But, if there is something wrong with the engine clearances from the factory, no amount of running will correct the problem ... ... regardless of how easy or hard you run the engine during it's break-in !! The real reason ??? So why do all the owner's manuals say to take it easy for the first thousand miles ??? This is a good question ... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Q: What is the most common cause of engine problems ??? A: Failure to: Warm the engine up completely before running it hard !!! Q: What is the second most common cause of engine problems ??? A: An easy break in !!! Because, when the rings don't seal well, the blow-by gasses contaminate the oil with acids and other harmful combustion by-products !! Ironically, an "easy break in" is not at all what it seems. By trying to "protect" the engine, the exact opposite happens, as leaky rings continue to contaminate your engine oil for the rest of the life of your engine !! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What about running it in the garage ??? Maybe you have a new snowmobile and it's not quite winter yet, or a new bike and it's snowing... The temptation to fire up a new vehicle in the garage just to actually "hear" the new engine can be very strong. This is the worst thing for a new engine, in fact, my advice is: don't even start it up until you're ready to warm it up for the first ride. The reason is that brand-new rings don't seat all the way around the 360 degrees of their circumference. The gas pressure from hard acceleration forces the rings to contact the cylinder around their entire circumference, which is the only way the rings can properly wear into the exact shape of the cylinder and seal the combustion pressure. Now, imagine if the engine is run in the garage. There is no load on the engine, so the rings are just going up and down "along for the ride". Only a small portion of their surface is actually contacting the cylinder wall. The ring area that does contact the cylinder wears down the roughness of the honing pattern on the cylinder walls. Once the roughness of the cylinder is gone, the rings stop wearing into the cylinder. If this happens before the entire ring has worn into the cylinder and sealed, you will have a slow engine no matter how hard it gets ridden after that point. The difference between what happens in an engine running in the garage, versus one being ridden is a hard concept to put into written words, so if I may use the sounds that we all can relate to: it's the difference between "zing-zing-zing" and "bwaaaaaaaaaAAAAAA" During "zing-zing-zing" the rings don't get loaded for more than a split second, whereas during "bwaaaaaAAAAAA", the engine is in 100% ring sealing mode. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Recent Snowmobile Info: Yamaha's break-in recommendation for the RX1 has been to idle the engine for 15 minutes. Some owners found that the heat build up from doing this was so extreme, that their taillight had begun melting (!!!) Yamaha has since changed the recommendation to three 5 minute idle periods. Why would Yamaha recommend a break in method which will prevent the rings from sealing as well as possible ?? This is a good question ... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A Picture's Worth A Thousand Words: [img]http://www.mototuneusa.com/BreakInF3Pistons.jpg[/img] The piston on the right was broken in as per MotoMan's instructions. After a full season of hard racing: - Perfect Ring Seal ... - No Scuffing ... - Lots of Trophies !!! These Honda F3 pistons show the difference. Although these pistons came out of engines which were raced for a full season, they weren't set-up with any special clearances or other preparation. These engines were never worked on prior to being raced. They were totally stock as built by Honda. The only difference was the break in method they used... The one on the right was broken in as per MotoMan's instructions. The one on the left was broken in exactly according to the owner's manual. The resulting leaky rings have allowed pressure to "blow by" down into the crankcase on acceleration, and oil to "suck-up" into the combustion chamber on deceleration. Needless to say, this bike was slow !! It's up to you: The loss in power from an easy break in and the resulting poor ring seal can be anywhere from 2% - 10% !! Update - Some have felt that the piston which was broken in hard in the above photo is too clean to be true !! "That piston is impossible, there must be some trick going on." So, here I present: "The Impossible Piston Museum" Here are 14 pistons from 14 different bikes, with several manufacturers represented. Some are from streetbikes and some from racebikes. All of the engines had the correct jetting, the reason some have black carbon deposits is because they were run on "pump gas", which burns dark regardless of the jetting. Whereas the lighter ones were run on oxygenated race fuel, which gives a very light tan to gray color. (Many of the black-carboned pistons were from racebikes.) Disclaimer: Absolutely no photo altering or physical cleaning of the pistons is allowed in the museum !! We run a legit exhibit, and all the artifacts on display are 100% genuine. Note: The controversial piston in the above picture is the last one in the middle row, and it's indicated by the red arrows. You can take a closer look by clicking on the photos to see the full sized versions: [img]http://www.mototuneusa.com/PistonMuseum1Thumb.jpg[/img][img]http://www.mototuneusa.com/PistonMuseum2Thumb.jpg[/img][img]http://www.mototuneusa.com/PistonMuseum3Thumb.jpg[/img] It looks like there are more than 14 pistons, because the area in the 3 photos overlap. It's 3 segments of a panorama photo to give you multiple views of this extraordinarily rare collection. The pistons have been stacked for display purposes only, they aren't going back into engines. Always be super careful when handling pistons, as the aluminum is soft and very easily dented, causing combustion leakage, and friction ... neither of which is good for power. As in any museum, some of the specimens are better examples than others, but the point is that none have any leakage past the top ring, because they were all broken in by the method described here ! The only impossible thing about these pistons ... is that it's impossible to achieve this result with an easy break-in What about street bikes ??? This piston is from a 650 Honda Hawk. The brown discoloration that extends up into the piston pin bore is burnt oil from the extreme heat leaking past all 3 rings !! The uneven heat leakage was so bad, that it caused the cylinder to distort and become out of round, causing piston to cylinder scuffing in the tight part of the "oval" cylinder. [img]http://www.mototuneusa.com/1BreakInHawk.jpg[/img] When I showed the customer his pistons, he said: " I don't understand how that happened, I followed the owner's manual break-in instructions 100% !! " Why would Honda recommend a break in method which will prevent the rings from sealing as well as possible ?? This is a good question ...
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Here is the Q&A section: Q: What's the third most common cause of engine problems ??? A: Not changing the oil soon enough after the engine is first run !! Change Your Oil Right Away !! The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc... Why do the manufacturers recommend waiting until 600 miles to flush out all the loose metal ??? This is a good question ... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3 more words on break- in: NO SYNTHETIC OIL !! Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least 2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding. After that use your favorite brand of oil. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Viewer Questions: Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ?? A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine, the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation. Q: My bike comes with synthetic oil from the factory, what should I do ?? A: I recommend changing the factory installed synthetic oil back to petroleum for the break-in period. Q: What about the main and rod bearings, don't they break - in ?? A: Actually, the operation of plain bearings doesn't involve metal to metal contact !! The shiny spots on used bearings are caused from their contact with the crankshaft journals during start up after the engine has been sitting a while, and the excess oil has drained off. This is the main reason for not revving up the engine when it's first started. The subject of plain bearings is one of the most mysterious aspects of engines, and will be covered in a future issue of Power News. In it, I'll reveal more information that fully explains the non-contact phenomenon. Q: Why change the oil at 20 miles ?? Doesn't the oil pick up screen catch the aluminum chips ??? A: It's true that the screen stops the big pieces, but many areas of the engine aren't within the oil filtration system. The oil that is splashed around will circulate metal debris to the lubricated bearing surfaces. For example, transmission gears and their ball bearings are unprotected by the filtration system, and even the cam chain makes a perfect "conveyer belt" to bring metal debris up into the cylinder head !! A close examination of a new engine will reveal lots of aluminum deposits on steel parts. This aluminum coats and tightens up the clearances of the parts, which creates a loss of power. Most of the time I spend "blueprinting" an engine is actually inspecting every part and "de-aluminizing" them !! I prefer to remove the oil pan and clean the aluminum bits out of a new engine out that way, but a $20 oil change is an easy and inexpensive way to flush the initial particles that come loose in the first miles. Q: What about motorcycle V.S. car oils ??? A: This is a topic all by itself !! It will be covered in a future issue of Power News. Q: Will this break - in method cause my engine to wear out faster ??? A: No, in fact, a poor ring seal will allow an increase in the by products of combustion to contaminate the oil. Acid contamination and oil consumption are the 2 reliability problems which are the result of an "owner's manual" or "magazine tech article" style easy break-in. By following the instructions on this page, you'll find that your oil is cleaner and the engine will rev quicker from not being "aluminized". Plus, you'll have much better torque and power across the power range from the vastly improved ring seal. Reliability and Power are 100% connected !!
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couple comments. BMW uses sythetic oil in their engines from mile 0. changing your oil after 20 miles is not necessary. changing it after the first 1000 is a bit anal, but not a bad idea. you won't be finding metal shavings in the oil. if you do. you're engine is almost certainly laying on the street, with a hole in the side of it from an ejected piston, ring or pin. that's what the oil filter is for. how would changing your oil in the first 20 miles keep metal from your tranny? it's not even the same system! :shock: i don't know, some of that information is pretty shady. dR
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[quote name='dark_rex'] how would changing your oil in the first 20 miles keep metal from your tranny? it's not even the same system! :shock: i don't know, some of that information is pretty shady. dR[/quote] I should probably delete my summary above because I did it from just remembering back on the article from almost a year ago. IIRC, changing tranny fluid is for if there are any metal particles in the transmission, not the engine. What is the point of changing the oil at 1000 miles? To get rid of any fine metal particles that may have ground off. His articles are at the least thought provoking. I'm just not sure if I have it in my to fly in the face of convention and break a car in entirely like this. Notice that he says that the break in is for power, and longevity isn't really listed as a reason for doing it though it comes up.
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I will say that I have driven every new car I have bought (1986 to present...about 9 cars) very hard right from the start and I have never had 1 single engine/turbo/or tranny problem ever (this is for Acura, BMW, Ford, Jeep, Lexus, Mitsubishi, Saab, Toyota....soon SUBARU!). I do think setting the rings properly takes some higher RPM operations right from the start (from all my avtiation maintenance experience also). Now this does not mean going out and racing your new car from light to light as you leave the dealership in your new GT (I probably will...HAHAHAHAHA!), but it should be driven at all RPM levels (even up to redline) in the very beggining of operation. I have always completed my first oil change in every new car within the first 100 miles of operation and I do highly recommend this (I usually find some particles...use a magnet and check it out...not the Lexus though, impressive). I will probably go hunting for a BMW or something right after I leave the dealership in my new Scooby...I'm a bit disturbed though. :lol:
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[quote name='"dark_rex"']couple comments. BMW uses sythetic oil in their engines from mile 0. changing your oil after 20 miles is not necessary. changing it after the first 1000 is a bit anal, but not a bad idea. you won't be finding metal shavings in the oil. if you do. you're engine is almost certainly laying on the street, with a hole in the side of it from an ejected piston, ring or pin. that's what the oil filter is for. how would changing your oil in the first 20 miles keep metal from your tranny? it's not even the same system! :shock: i don't know, some of that information is pretty shady. dR[/quote] None of it is shady, although just illustrating a difference between the auto and bike world. Any bike forum has had the breakin discussion be a lot more heated then what I've ever seen at nasioc or any other auto forum. Bikes uses a common oil sump to lubricate not only the engine but the tranny as well. In addition the oil is also used to submerge the clutch plates. This guy is very legit and his method has been used by thousands of motorcyclists now, though it still causes conflicts when brought up or referenced. As stated earlier it is thought provoking and I've broken-in two motorcycles this way and both are still going strong (20k on one, 8k on the other). Havn't had the chance to try it on an auto yet. BTW, you WILL find metal flakes in your oil. If it is really bad your oil may have a very small metal-flake tint to it. But most often you won't even notice it, unless you send your oil off for analysis. If you think about it in a very logical way it does make sense. From a longevitiy standpoint it is the way to go. The synthetic comment is very accurate, engine builders NEVER use synthetic for the very first initial break-in. I once heard (don't know how true it is) that BMW breaks-in their motors at the factory for quite a while and then drops in the synthetic. I myself used the drive it as you normally would procedure on my cars. If your gonna baby the car its whole life then baby it while breaking it in. If your gonna be hard on it, drive it as such. FWIW, the two bikes I've broken-in (both Kawas) with Motoman's method had stickers that were identical on the tachs. If I remember right it said the first 500 miles never go above 3k and after that never go above 5k until 1k miles. Or something similiar to that. One bike had a 7k redline and you could actually ride at highway speeds following the manufacturers break-in. The other had a 15k redline (most of its power above 10k) and following the break-in would get me about 32 mph in 6th. I lost faith in manufacturers recommended break-in procedures after seeing the same identical sticker on both bikes.
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yes, there is typically a small break in period for brand new turbos. engines these days are machined to such a better final product due to innovations in the mettalury sciences, and casting/forging technology, that much of the break in practices of old are no longer necessary. it is still recceomended to run the first 1000 miles under 4K rpms, and out of boost as much as possible, but the fact is, your piston rings seal in the first 1 or 2 heat changes, and the first 30 miles. remember, if your rings WEREN'T sealed, you'd be having some serious problems idleing, and probably more than a little oil burning in your mix. dR
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tide, going easy for the first 500-1000 miles is precisely what motoman is disagreeing with. his break-in procedure is based on the notion that the piston rings are set in the first 20 miles, and you must drive hard for part of those miles to get the best seal. on the other hand, i'm still uncertain as to whether this would be bad for the turbo.
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If the turbo is fully lubricated and everything is warmed up properly, what could the damage be hypothetically? what parts in a turbo need to "set"? I don't know myself of what could go wrong, but then I'm ignerent.
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My new B4 ran 2000+ km now. I drove softly for the first 1600km to ensure new parts run smoothly before I drive it harder. :oops: :oops: I pick a route approximately 100km for a short break-in: 2nd gear at constant 3000rpm (~50km/h) for 10-20km 3rd gear at constant 3000rpm (~80km/h) for 10-20km 4th gear at constant 3000rpm (~100km/h) for 10-20km 5th gear at constant 2000-3000rpm (~100-130km/h) for 10-20km NOTE: The speed limit of 99% highways in my country is 80km/h and 100km/h. So I'm afraid it's hard to run-in the car at 5th gear at contants rpm... :cry:
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The different gears don't matter. You are [i]supposed[/i] to vary the rpms so that the engine sees different loads. This is why a 1000mile highway road trip isn't a break in. For that common break in style, I think that stop and go traffic kept under about 3500 would be best. But that would take FOREVER to rack up 1000 miles in that kind of traffic.
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i read about this Z that put 260 to the wheels. thats probably the most hp i have ever seen to the wheel on a Z mostly people put down around 240. He said he drove it easy for the first hundred then he just broke lose. Reved the shit out of the car. I think that driving it hard is best because it makes sense that your car would be broken in to have performance.
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I will probably do 20-40 miles of hard break-in, then do the fluid/filter change and take it easy for the remainder of the 1000, but not afraid to push it a bit here and there. It does make a bit of sense to me.
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I agree, SUBE. It does make a lot of sense especially in the first miles. I think the problem with most people's drive it like you stole it break-in is that there is little thought or true process being applied.
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Hmm, should a good group-drive help that break-in? :P Well, get your initial 20-50 miles, change fluids/filters, then a group-drive. :) I'll probably be getting mine in the middle of winter though so I'd have her all broken-in by the first ones unless it was 24hrs of tri-state.
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One car mag i read got a test Leggy to drive. They were dissapointed with the performance - even tho it had done a few thousand miles they decided it had been babied and needed more breaking in. So the took it out for a spirted drive. Afterwards the 0-60 came down by a secound i think and braking improved by 3 yards.
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[quote name='EJ20H-TT']One car mag i read got a test Leggy to drive. They were dissapointed with the performance - even tho it had done a few thousand miles they decided it had been babied and needed more breaking in. So the took it out for a spirted drive. Afterwards the 0-60 came down by a secound i think and braking improved by 3 yards.[/quote] :shock: :twisted: 8)
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