Help make my trunk sound better. Please

[Powerman]

This is what I have. All four doors "completely" dynamatted. I got a good deal on a roll and have about 12-14 sq. ft. left over. I have a 10" sub in a sealed box in the trunck. The amp is mounted on the box. I have another amp and Clean Sweep mounted verticaly in a cabinet type thing on the side of the trunk.

So first the easy part. I was going to remove the tool tray above the spare and mount both amps and clean sweep there. I'm quite sure I have enough spare cord to do so. I figured I would mount them on MFD and make it nice and still able to get to the spare. I'm no instaler, but I think I can handle that.

1.)If I put my amps there, and use the stock tire cover, will my amps overheat? Should I maybe mount the amps on spacers to allow air underneath and use a more open type of cover?

2.) Where should I put the rest of the dynamat? I read the sticky on the subject. I was going to completely cover the trunk lid. Should I only use strips? What to do with the rest. Any place need it more than others? Anything else I should use besides mat? What about the spare hole? I figured I would use mineral board to help things out.

Basically I don't know whether I am supposed to keep sound out, or dampen things to improve the sound of my subwoofer. Both would be great. One nice thing as of now is that I don't have any obvious rattles or hums from the sub. I do have a spoiler.

[lucas569]

the tray on the back is where i have rattles that and my trunk... a lil anyhow. (i have 2 12"s though...

BUT ive yet to deaden it....

i removed the oem blocker plate to let the bass seep thru, that made a huge improvement!

imo the spare tire area does get hot, i had an amp go into protection mode once but i was really pushing it and it was hot but i dont want that to happen.

at the moment mine is covered w/ plexi but look at the pic i posted (thats not my trunk btw) but i just wanted to show you how that guy mounted some mesh up so the amps could breathe.

thats on to do list when i have some time...

all i gotta do is switch the plexi w/ some mesh

[Powerman]

i removed the oem blocker plate to let the bass seep thru, that made a huge improvement!

Right, you are talking about the 6"-8" cut out on the drivers side rear deck? I wondered if it would start rattling. What did you cover it with? Is that a speaker grill of some sort? What is wrong with taking the plate out and just leaving the carpet over it? We don't keep anything on the deck. I would like to have things as indescreet as possible.

The mesh screen for the spare tire is a great idea. I don't care if stuff is visible in the trunk, I was just trying to improve usability a bit.

[CSTMIZR]

Here is a link to what is required to vent the rear deck (or to simply remove the plate). Check posts 10 and 11 for notes on the difference between just the plate removal and the actual venting, as well as pics of the flushmount option that would allow you to conceal the vent completely (when wrapped in matching cloth).


A must have in my opinion:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62893



P.S. The deck is solid and is made of a composite, so there would be more than just carpet blocking the bass if you simply remove the plate.


As for the deadening, the more the merrier. The best option is to remove all of the trunk panelling, floor, tire, etc., and mat the entire trunk and lid. However, for your setup that is not necessary, just cover the lid and be as thourough as possible using multiple pieces as is needed.

As for the heat, lucas's suggestions are good and fans are always an option too.

[lucas569]

Right, you are talking about the 6"-8" cut out on the drivers side rear deck? I wondered if it would start rattling. What did you cover it with? Is that a speaker grill of some sort? What is wrong with taking the plate out and just leaving the carpet over it? We don't keep anything on the deck. I would like to have things as indescreet as possible.

The mesh screen for the spare tire is a great idea. I don't care if stuff is visible in the trunk, I was just trying to improve usability a bit.

yes, we used a jl audio speaker grill. i dont see nothing wrong with just taking it out but it may cause some noise if you just took it out and didnt make a hole for it to vent up but thats my guess....

i wouldnt go thru the trouble of taking it out unless i put some sort of small grill there...

[Powerman]

A must have in my opinion:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62893



P.S. The deck is solid and is made of a composite, so there would be more than just carpet blocking the bass if you simply remove the plate.


As for the deadening, the more the merrier. The best option is to remove all of the trunk panelling, floor, tire, etc., and mat the entire trunk and lid. However, for your setup that is not necessary, just cover the lid and be as thourough as possible using multiple pieces as is needed.

As for the heat, lucas's suggestions are good and fans are always an option too.

Doh, my work blocks pictures. I'll have to check it out when I get home. I figured some folks open the ski hole. I was much more after cleaner tighter bass when choosing my sub. The wife was not going to put up with boomy loud bloated base. That is why I went with a sealed box. Your suggestion for the deck has me stoked.

I have more than enough to do the trunk lid. On some of the pics on people's instals they used some roll/paint on material for the floor. That seems easy. Is it expensive, or better yet needed.

[CSTMIZR]

I have more than enough to do the trunk lid. On some of the pics on people's instals they used some roll/paint on material for the floor. That seems easy. Is it expensive, or better yet needed.


For a single 10" driver there is no need for you to deaden the floor. If you were to though, I would recommend a sheeted material (dynamat type) or a serious liquid-form deadener (the roll-on thing has to be done properly and generally does not serve the purpose well).


That being said, if you are seeking true audiophile results (that are allowed by your current components and install) then I would suggest that you do as thorough a deadening job as possible.

The goal here is to have the percieved contribution of the subwoofer compliment the rest of the system, while its entirety is seeking to be true to the recording itself.

So... the deadening will create a "more perfect" environment for the transfer and reflection of the pressure provided by your sub. Go wild, and deaden as much you care to, its up to you. :)



Also, I believe the vent's results will more than satisfy your needs, and just in case you're at work again and forgot last night at home....here are the flushmount shots as an attachment.:)

[lucas569]

that flusmount looks real good, i gotta stop seeing stuff like this! makes me want to bring it up another level.

[CSTMIZR]

^^Thanks:)

Yeah, I had originally wanted to do the walkthrough for the flushmount, but too many other projects going on and the owner wasn't too particular about it either way. I'll get shots next time I do one flush.

[Powerman]

That would be cool. I was trying to figure out how you did that and where you get the stuff. Went looking for things to build my stuff but couldn't find anything. I want some mesh or grill material to do my amp board above my spare tire. Couldn't find speaker carpet either to do it with. Looked for ideas about the flush mount, but came up empty handed.

I did look at removing my rear seat and the rear deck to do the vent. I deadened my trunk lid. I looked at buying raamat (?) but they are back ordered because of QC problems. I got another dynamat trunk kit and will spread it as much as possible. I think the MFD above the wheel will help that, and I will try to hit the rear deck, trunk floor, below the rear seat, and wheel wells. I know I can't cover all that, but I will do pieces.

I have to do the amp board first and then I will take all the carpet out of the trunk and see what I have. Where can I find some speaker carpet and mesh material for that?

[lucas569]

car audio shop...

[CSTMIZR]

That would be cool. I was trying to figure out how you did that and where you get the stuff. Went looking for things to build my stuff but couldn't find anything. I want some mesh or grill material to do my amp board above my spare tire. Couldn't find speaker carpet either to do it with. Looked for ideas about the flush mount, but came up empty handed.

I did look at removing my rear seat and the rear deck to do the vent. I deadened my trunk lid. I looked at buying raamat (?) but they are back ordered because of QC problems. I got another dynamat trunk kit and will spread it as much as possible. I think the MFD above the wheel will help that, and I will try to hit the rear deck, trunk floor, below the rear seat, and wheel wells. I know I can't cover all that, but I will do pieces.

I have to do the amp board first and then I will take all the carpet out of the trunk and see what I have. Where can I find some speaker carpet and mesh material for that?


Powerman,

I'll start with the deadening thing.....I was unfamiliar with raamat so I googled it and that man knows what he is talking about! He is obviously some variety of engineer first, and car audio buff second, I can tell by his verbiage on the site.

It is a great all-in-one spot to find out everything you would ever need to know about deadening, here's a good page:


http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/


As for the QC problems, you can also see (by the state of the website) that the product is not from a large corporation. There are no doubt going to be kinks involved with someone trying to market a product like that on their own (looks like a great product though).


Regardless of the mat you use, you should try to concentrate on the trunk (skip under the back seat and spare tire hole for now). Use the mat you have for the rear deck and trunk floor and sides, and try to avoid pieces smaller than say one dimension being 8". Also go for more concentrated areas rather than sporadic patches or strips.


Amp rack......I am assuming you mean MDF (medium density fiberboard). You can get it at home depot in 2' x 4' pieces. I don't believe youwill have to worry about heat with your current setup. If I recall correctly you have a 10w3 and that is a dual 2 ohm driver, meaning the shop most likely wired it at 4 ohms, which is nice and light on the current draw. As well, with your listening style you shouldn't be generating all that much heat.

If you are still concerned though, I would go to radio shack and pick up two small fans and mount them with small holes towards the rear of the trunk (no need for big holes). As close as you can to the back with a bit of mesh over them. The mesh for that you can also get at HD in the Windows and door section.

Carpeting for the rack is most easily purchased from a car audio shop.

On to the flushmount.......The grill is from a 6.5" ADS midbass speaker (works well b/c the emblem is easily removable and there is no indent for it). Most audio shops will have extra grills laying around and also have grill cloth that should matchup nicely with your rear deck (you can get them when you buy the carpet for the amp rack).

The flushmount is a reasonably difficult process to describe w/o visuals, and somewhat painstaking work. So, I'll be back later with an attempt to detail it for you.............

[Powerman]

I read that showdown and wanted to get some, but it isn't available and I got a discount from the shop and w/ shipping.... I just got some more Dynamat.

That would be cool if I didn't have to worry about heat. I was thinking of how tho sort of brace stuff so I could still use the trunk, but that cover is just flimsy plastic to begin with.

I have my 6.5 grill from my coaxs', but they are a bit too small. I was going to go look for some grills today. I need to pick some up for my tweeters too.

I have a couple of other ideas for the vent. I just need the time to take a look at it. If it works I will take pics and post up for others.

How long would you say that it takes to remove the rear deck and cut the vent and put everything back. I should have a good amount of time Sunday.

[CSTMIZR]

I'm back,

1. The 6.5" grill should be more than sufficent and better aesthetically. I would recommend 6.5", but its your car so, have at it if you like the look of something larger.

2. For support a pair of well placed 1/4" masonite strips (rack width x say 6" wide) over the rack widthwise in the trunk, should do the job nicely. Or veritical supports from the bottom of the rack (3/4" or even 2x4 pieces).

3. I've done dozens, so for me it takes about 45 mins - 1.5 hrs dependent on the car. For a first-timer I would set aside at least 3+ hours, to include discovery (hope my walkthroughs help :)) and being very careful all the way through.

Here is a mock walkthrough on the flushmounting and link to the earlier process:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62893

Enjoy.




http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x215/CSTMIZR/DVmock1.jpg


http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x215/CSTMIZR/DVmock2.jpg


http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x215/CSTMIZR/DVmock3.jpg


http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x215/CSTMIZR/DVmock4.jpg


http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x215/CSTMIZR/DVmock5.jpg


http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x215/CSTMIZR/DVmock6.jpg





Hope that helps............

[Powerman]

Makes perfect sense. I was thinking why I couldn't just find a way to peel off the backing, but your explanation of how delicate the carpet is answered that one. I could use my grill, or I'll see what I can find. I was actually wondering if I could find some light matching cloth to actually redo the whole deck with it. Cut the hole and then recarpet the deck. Any cloth that was thin enough though would have to be stretched well and I would have to be very sparing with the glue.

Have you ever thought, or done such a thing?

[CSTMIZR]

1. Yes, I have rewrapped an entire deck (several as a matter of fact). I used factory material from a good upholsrty shop (that was for extensive modification though, ie. fiberglass tubs,etc.).

2. If you want to go that route, go factory or have a professional upholsterer do the match. It is very easy to screw up a color match when layed over such a large area and then you'll be like....Doh!!!, and have to try again or live with what appears to be a faded or just plain off color deck.

3. Also, flush a grill regardless of the cloth wrap (whole or just grill), the material will sag and look like sh*t if you don't.

4. I would recommend trying the flush as I showed it here, and wrapping the grill in a close grill cloth match first. It'll look great and any variance in the color will appear as an accent rather than an entire mis-matched part.

Worst case scenario......you try the flush like this and then if you mess up, move on to a full wrap attempt. You cut the hole, flush the grill and then wrap.

P.S. For off the shelf spray adhesive go with 3M Super 77, spray both the deck and carpet, allow to air dry for ~20secs and then carefully lay it down from one end to the other.

[Powerman]

Well crap, this will have to wait. I just found out my new hot water heater smoked while we were gone. I hate burnt insulation. I'm glad our house is still standing. :eek:

[CSTMIZR]

WOW, close one huh. Hey, sorry to hear that and glad it wasn't worse. Hope everything works out.

When you do attempt it let me know if you need any further help.:)

[Powerman]

Well after a call to GE, and a trip to Home Depot, I have hot water again. I'm still a little paranoid, had to check all my smoke alarms...


Any hoo, back to our regularly scheduled obsession....

So have you just cut a hole and reupholstered the deck on top of the old cloth???

Oh ya, got my calibration CD from JL today so time for some testing tomorrow.

[CSTMIZR]

Yeah, but I used a very thin material (tolerances in the mounting of certain decks are tight). Usually its better to strip the deck, and the only times I really did it was if the car/owner preferred it a bit "poofy".

I always mounted a grill though to keep the fabric from sagging or vibrating up and down with the bass.

For the '05 LGT the deck and cover material are very thin and the tolerances are reasonably tight. So if you go with a full wrap, use a thin professionally matched material.

[Powerman]

Well I did some work. I looked at redoing the rear deck, but that didn't look any good. I got a grill to use, but went with option "B".

I got some grey grill cloth. I did the stealth install method with peeling the deck cloth back. I then glued the grill cloth on. It isn't an exact color match, but it isn't black either. (I have that gry/beige interior.) I was worried about it sticking, but the spray adhesive worked well. I managed to get it streched real tight and I doesn't flutter. I did it underneath, not on top. I post pics when I get home

I moved all my stuff to the wheel well, and dynamated the drunk and rear deck. There is a definite bass improvement, but I did manny things at once so I can't rate each item.

Next I am replacing my LOC with RCA y connectors. Also, since the sub amp was mounted on the box, I don't have long enough wire on it. So, I have to rewire my sub to put my sub where I want it. I just have something spliced now.

What guage, or type of wire should I use to power my 10W3v3-4 with 200 watts???

[CSTMIZR]

SCHWEET!!! Can't wait for the pics.


Replacing the LOC with Y-adaptors?................They do two different things, I didn't follow that???................


Oh, you have the v3-4 (nice....same difference on the current-draw/heat thing, no worries), I would recommend a 12 gauge wire for the sub leads (just enough, but not too much).


Also, DO NOT leave exposed splices. If they are temporary, a good twisting and electrical tape wrapping will do (3M 33+, best IMO).




:)<waiting anxiously>:)

[Powerman]

Here you go. The under side of the deck

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/free2801/underdeck.jpg

The finished product.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/free2801/reardeck.jpg

All finished

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/free2801/backwindow.jpg

My trunk before had a board he Clean sweep and amp were mounted to. It took up the whole side and you couldn't lift the cover up to get to the spare with the sub in.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/free2801/trunkbefore.jpg

So now it is all under the cover.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/free2801/trunkafter.jpg

[CSTMIZR]

DUDE!!!:eek:.........Congrats!!! That looks awesome, nicely done indeed. For a first-timer (or even a pro) that is an excellent result. Kudos.

It's nice to see the walkthroughs implemented, and so well at that.

Cheers:)





PM'd you back on the Y-adaptor/CS thing.